Want to know the best things to do in Antigua? We’ve got you sorted!
At times, it feels like you can’t swing a cat without hitting a gorgeous ruin of an 17th or 18th century monastery, cathedral or convent in Antigua.
(take our word for it though, no need to procure your own cat).
There are a quite ridiculous number, both relative to the size of the place and to other colonial cities in Central America. Some are well-preserved, several are roofless and in a real state of disrepair, whilst others are slowly being restored to their former glories and host offices, museums, or hotels.
This, along with its alluring blend of slippery volcanic cobblestone streets, secret courtyards behind thick mahogany doors, and low-slung buildings splashed in shades of custard yellow and burgundy red, was a key factor in its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Rather than a historical quirk though, the disproportionate number of grand ecclesiastical ruins in the former Guatemalan capital is simply a reflection of the two key factors in this small city’s creation and fate: Antigua’s colonial status and its vulnerability to natural disasters.
Founded in the dip of a lush valley in 1543, surrounded by hills and a trio of volcanoes, the city was the seat of Spanish power in Central America for two centuries. At the time, the region encompassed territories we now know as several independent countries, and Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala – as Antigua was first known – was one of the richest places in the New World.
This led to the construction of grand religious buildings to demonstrate the influence of both the crown and the Catholic Church, as well as accommodate various orders of monks and nuns.
Yet, from the laying of the first stone, Antigua had a fatal flaw.
One may be quick to finger the trio of volcanoes that encircle it as the most likely culprits – particularly the one they named ‘Fire’ – but they are only responsible for parts of the city looking a little singed; scalded and brushed in black streaks of soot.
Instead, it was a pair of devastating earthquakes in 1717 and 1773 that left much in rubble and ruin.
The threat and costs of repeated destruction stemming from its location in a seismically active valley basin led to the capital being relocated in 1776 to somewhere that offered, literally, more stability. That new location was present-day Guatemala City, and the left behind was rechristened as ‘the old city’ of Antigua.
The silver lining of that abandonment?
There are few places more beautiful in the Americas.
And that is why you will seek out and stumble upon so many hauntingly captivatingly ruins as you wander these cobblestone streets. For the first-timer, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the number, and make the rookie mistake of thinking your plans should involve ticking off a dozen or so across your stay.
That’s where this guide comes in.
As well curating down the number of ruins to those which are actually unmissable, we’ve also shared everything you need to know to have a bloody good time here. From volcano hikes, art galleries, coffee shops, rooftops bars, markets, viewpoints, Spanish lessons and nighttime drinking holes – these are the best things to do in Antigua, Guatemala.
The Essentials
Explore / The lively Mercado Central and watch life unfold in Parque Central
Join / A Guatemalan cooking class – this one has excellent reviews
Visit / MUNAG and Paseo Los Museos for art, views, and history
Marvel / At the ruins of the Santa Clara and Capuchinas convents
Camp / Overnight on Acatenango Volcano
Find / Secret volcano viewpoints and rooftops – don’t miss Iglesia de la Merced
Photograph / The iconic Arco Santa Catalina
Sip / Specialty Guatemalan coffee in the city’s excellent coffee shops, like 12 Onzas
Learn / Spanish at the affordable language schools
Reflect / At the miracles of Hermano San Pedro at Santuario de San Franciso
Drink / Mezcal and chelas at Cafe No Se
Hike / The famous Pacaya Volcano peak – this is the tour we did
Shop / Empowering artisan goods on the east side’s hipster enclave
Fly / Arriving into Guatemala City airport? Read our guide on transport connections, or opt for the door-to-door transfer we took.
Hotel / Hotel Casa Rustica (budget), Hotel Las Farolas (mid-range) or Good Hotel (boutique)
Hostels / Tropicana Hostel, Somos Hostel or Yellow House
Airbnbs / Villa Carmen Elisa, Palatial Home With Rooftop Jacuzzi, Casa-Museo de 1926 and Apartment With Terrace
Explore The Mercado Central
If it’s your first time in Guatemala or Central America, then ensure you spend a couple of hours or so immersing yourself in the sights, sounds, smells, and scenes of the Mercado Central.
A 10-minute walk from the city centre, it’s an antidote to the soulless aisles of generic supermarkets to which most of us have become accustomed; it’s also a wonderful insight into Guatemalan culture and daily life beyond the main tourist attractions.
Antigua’s main market, it’s a joyful, slightly chaotic place of commerce alive with colour and characters. Across the open-air and indoor stalls, there are piles of avocados, papayas, and mangoes, mountains of shoes and textiles, stacked boxes of children’s toys, fresh flowers, toiletries, and many wonderfully random additions.
There’s also usually several crackling speakers on full blast.
We absolutely love wandering around it and, when we were staying in Antigua to study Spanish, shopping here formed a big part of our daily ritual.
Where | On the west side of the city, you can find Mercado Central here on Google Maps. The indoor Handicrafts / Artisan Market adjoins it and, whilst it mostly has the same mass-produced souvenirs you’ll see all over the country, it is still worth popping your head in for a look.
When | Open daily from around 7am to 6pm, but you’re best not to arrive too early or too late in the day.
Book | If you prefer to not go alone, consider joining this highly-rated cooking class which includes a tour of the market to buy your ingredients before leaning how to make a Guatemalan feast.
If it’s sold out, then there is a similar class + market tour with equally excellent reviews – check availability here.
Travel Tip // For some backpackers, the market may actually be your first or last stop in Antigua, as the main bus station is right next door (Google Maps). You’ll find lots of ‘chicken buses’ – really just wonderfully converted old American school buses there – there for various connections to Quetzaltenango, Lake Atitlan, and elsewhere.
Visit MUNAG (The National Museum of Guatemalan Art)
Running along the south side of Parque Central, the Museo Nacional de Arte de Guatemala takes over two floors of the former Royal Palace of the Captains General. This beautiful UNESCO-listed building was the seat of power for the Spanish colonial government in Central America for over two centuries, and has been tastefully restored.
All dark colonial wooden ceilings, creaking floors, and rust coloured tiles, MUNAG is as far from being a ‘white cube’ gallery as you can get. This adds a lovely atmospheric element to the art-viewing experience, but sometimes the low-lighting and nooks can take something away from the work.
Only opened in 2021, it’s now the country’s foremost gallery and primarily celebrates Guatemalan art.
The contemporary galleries on the ground floor host temporary exhibitions from emerging artists, before leading into a surprising introduction to art history more generally. This interweaves the works, sculptures, and silver collections with a timeline of Guatemala’s journey from pre-colonial, Spanish rule to independent republic.
Some displays become slightly more esoteric toward the end, so don’t feel bad if your interest begins to wane a little.
If your travel buddy is the type that has to be dragged to any gallery or museum, then the added incentive is the great views of Parque Central and the Cathedral from the second-floor terraces. At the back, there is also a huge, photogenic courtyard that is surprisingly easy to miss.
Where| Find MUNAG on Google Maps.
The Museo Santiago de los Caballeros is also here. It has a collection of weapons and is a good place learn about the history of Guatemala, but it’s not something to prioritise on shorter visits.
When | 10am-6pm, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.
Cost | Entry to MUNAG is free, but there is a person working at the entrance who may ask you to provide details in their guestbook. Explainers are in English, Spanish, and the indigenous Kaqchikel language. Audio guides in English are also sometimes available.
Top Tip // If modern art is your thing, then try to make it out to La Nueva Fábrica. The non-profit gallery is a little outside the city, and committed to empowering communities through art.
Marvel at The Ruins Of Convento Santa Clara
As mentioned in the introduction, we don’t think the best approach for every travel style and those only here for a few days is to have an itinerary that’s overly weighted toward the ruins.
Not only is there the law of diminishing returns, but it may negatively impact your overall experience and appreciation of Antigua.
Instead, we think it’s best to curate and intentionally seek out those ruins which are most special and beguiling
For us, the Santa Clara Convent is top of the list.
It was built for nuns from the Order of Saint Clare, known for their vows of poverty, chastity, and strict enclosure. The convent’s structure reflected this cloistered life, with high walls, narrow windows, and private living quarters arranged around a tranquil courtyard keeping them isolated from the outside world. Severe damage by both the 18th century earthquakes left it in its current state, though there have been several areas restored in recent decades.
In terms of architecture, scale, and atmosphere, few in the city match it.
The beautiful and well-maintained gardens are highlight too, permitting one to feel like a plotter at the Alhambra or Dorne from Game of Thrones.
There’s also a two-room display of recovered ceramics and pottery, and a few pictures revealing just how much restoration and repair has patched up all the buildings. Don’t miss the small ornate church facade after the entrance, which is slightly hidden away.
Where | The Convent can be found here on Google Maps. It’s open 9am to 5pm everyday, and
When | It’s open 9am to 5pm everyday, and you need an hour or so to enjoy it.
Cost | 40Q for foreign adults, 20Q for foreign students. There is a note at the entrance stating a Q1,000 fee for formal photographic shoots.
Top Tip // If visiting Santa Clara in the afternoon, be sure head to the lady who sells sweet treats out the back of her burgundy Volvo on 2a Avenida Sur. All pastries cost 7q each.
People Watch in Parque Central
Framed by the cobbled streets, Parque Central is more than just a picturesque square: it’s the beating heart of Guatemala’s most enchanting city.
Local women in colorful woven skirts and embroidered blouses sell trinkets and corn snacks, whilst tin can tuk-tuks in shades of silver and blue zip by. Ice cream vendors stand near the fountain, offering frozen treats served from mini chicken bus cone holders, while others sell from wheelbarrows piled high with peanuts and plastic bags filled with slices of fresh papaya or mango. Couples, both young and old, linger on wrought iron benches beneath the shade of tropical trees and the purple blooms of the jacaranda. As the afternoon unfolds, the Fuente de las Sirenas fountain in the centre becomes a gathering place, drawing families and friends to its sparkling waters.
Around the periphery – under symmetrical stone arches and woodframe arcades – are cafes, museums, the cathedral, MUNAG, currency sellers, shoe-shiners, and newspaper sellers.
You’ll criss-cross it so many times – intentionally or not – that it will become your touchstone and reference point. And, whist mentioning Parque Central in a ‘things to do in Antigua’ post is hardly an original suggestion, our main advice is to try and enjoy it at different times of day. As the city wakes and light is soft, it’s quite different to the mid-afternoon when there are more tour groups and it’s a bit more hectic.
Our favourite time is from about 5pm onward, as work is winding down, the worst of the heat is abating, and one can simply sit and watch life somewhere else take place.
Where | You can find Parque Central slap bang in the middle of Antigua – here on Google Maps.
Know | As Antigua was built on the classic Spanish colonial grid system – like Oaxaca in Mexico – you can access and exit it from eight different streets. This isn’t a bad thing but, if you’re only in Antigua for a few days, we suggest trying to walk routes which don’t always go via the park.
Travel Tip // Whilst we love getting lost in new cities and discovering the streets and sights at our own speed, we appreciate that having a good tour guide to give context to a new place can be incredibly insightful (plus, stops you getting completely lost and makes sure you don’t miss any important sites). There are lots of walking tours available, but this is a great option if you’d like to book something in advance.
Walk on the Rooftop of Iglesia de la Merced
There are many places to get fantastic views of the Antigua skyline – don’t worry, they’re all in this guide – but the one we think you absolutely shouldn’t miss is the rooftop of La Merced
A stunning 18th century baroque church known for its ornate yellow-and-white facade and intricate stucco work, Iglesia de la Merced is one of the most important and active religious buildings in the city. It draws pilgrims from across the country and plays a central role in Antigua’s famous Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations.
The rooftop is open and accessible for travellers of all faiths and none, but a lot of people still don’t know about it.
Entry to the rooftop also brings you through the beautiful remnants of Convento de la Merced, another building destroyed by the 1773 earthquake.
Where | The entrance and ticket office for the rooftop is on the door just to the left of the main church entrance – here on Google Maps. Note that you do not need to enter the main body of the church in order to access the rooftop.
By the way, it is really worth taking a moment to properly devour the craft and detail of the main entrance – it’s a work of art!
The small green space right outside the church – Parque la Merced – has souvenir stalls and vendors, and usually has a pleasant buzz, and is one of the most reliable spots in the city for street food at night.
When | The rooftop is open from around 8.30am and closes around 4.30 pm, but from experience we know that it may open later and close earlier than advertised. We recommend you get there earlier than 4pm to make the last entrance, only head up on a clear day, and time it to avoid peak heat as there’s zero shade up there.
Tickets | 20Q for foreign adults.
Top Tip // Guatemala remains deeply rooted in its religious traditions, with Catholicism and indigenous spiritual practices intertwining in daily life. Religious services and processions continue to play a central role in the cultural fabric of the country, and churches and cathedrals are not simply tourist attractions. Iglesia La Merced, for example, has several well-attended daily masses.
It is important that every visitor – of all faiths and none – respects this, and acts appropriately in any religious buildings. By all means pop your head into appreciate the buildings but, when there are services on, it’s best to just come back later.
Also, give worshippers privacy, space, and respect.
Modest dress is expected, with hats to be removed inside, shoulders covered, and no shorts: as in Italy, it’s a good idea for women to have a simple scarf in their day bag to pop on.
Semana Santa
Antigua hosts one of the world’s largest, most famous celebrations of Semana Santa.
Each day of Holy Week, the city is taken over by elaborate processions where locals, dressed in traditional purple and white robes, carry massive, hand-carved wooden floats (andas) depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ. Often weighing several tons, they are borne on the shoulders of hundreds of volunteers who process through cobblestone streets adorned with alfombras—intricate carpets made from colored sawdust, flowers, and pine needles that are meticulously crafted only to be trampled by the processions.
The city’s doors, windows, and public buildings are also draped in purple, a colour rich with Christian symbolism.
Thousands of people come here specifically for Semana Santa – which usually falls around late March or early to mid-April – and it’s a very religious, sombre celebration. On a practical level, if you’re not there to join or watch, it’s best to avoid visiting Antigua during this time as prices for accommodation soar, roads are closed, crowds are huge, and many businesses won’t operate as normal.
We’ve shared more about the impact of the Semana Santa holiday season on your potential itinerary in 23 Travel Tips for Guatemala (published soon)
Camp On Acatenango Volcano
Searching for a moment that reminds you exactly why you’re the type of traveller who takes their vacation allowance to go on adventures, rather than just laze by a pool?
Or simply want to make Brian back at the office super jealous?
Then let us introduce you to Acatenango Volcano.
Visible from Antigua on a clear day, and just an hour’s drive away, the 3,976 metre summit lies next to Central America’s most active volcano. Every day hundreds of people hike up it to stay overnight on the summit, watch constant eruptions of Fuego from basecamp, and enjoy a spectacular summit sunrise above the clouds.
It is, without a hint of hyperbole, one of the best and most memorable experiences we’ve had in a decade of travelling along dusty roads together. So, if you’re fit, able, and have the time in your Guatemala itinerary, then you should absolutely add Acatenango this to your bucket list.
Know | The 18km (11 miles) out-and-back trail is quite challenging, especially as you’re at altitude and have to carry a certain amount of supplies up for basecamp, but it’s still a realistic hike for those who have a reasonable level of fitness.
For those looking to take it even further, you can pay extra to hike the additional four-hour roundtrip hike to Fuego from your Acatenango basecamp, but it’s technically not permitted and comes with pros /cons.
Book | The Volcan Acatenango overnight can only be done with a licensed tour company, and there are dozens of them in the city. However, as Acatenango is now firmly established as one the most popular day trips from Antigua, slots sell out weeks in advance for the November-March high season.
There’s also a marked difference in tours and price depending on group size, transport, guides, kit rental, reliability and quality of the basecamp – and choosing the wrong one can have a really negative impact.
OXO Adventures is one of the most reliable and highly-rated.
If the overnight hike doesn’t suit, or you’re concerned about fitness, there is the option to do a a day trip with a 4×4 jeep ride to the summit
Plan / We’ve shared everything you really need to know to prepare, find a last-minute place, understand the logistics, and the kit you need to bring in our Guide to the Acatenango Volcano Hike.
Enjoy The Coffee Shops & Fincas of Antigua
Coffee is big business in Guatemala.
It was introduced in the 1850s, and is now responsible for about 40% of agricultural export revenue. Nearly a quarter of the population is involved in the industry and it’s the 9th largest producer in the world: whether you’re from Sweden or South Dakota, we’d put money on the fact your’ve sampled some beans grown here at some point.
We’ve both really learned to appreciate good coffee in the last decade and, whilst nearby Xela is the place with our very favourite cafes, everyone from specialty coffee snobs, those looking to learn a little more beyond a latte, or lovers of cool spaces serving up reliably excellent caffeine to chill out or work for an hour or two will find their perfect spot.
We’ve actually put together a separate guide on our favourite coffee shops in Antigua, but the three we wanted to single out in this post are:
12 Onzas / Named after the 12-ounce serving size, this place has award-winning baristas using coffee from their family finca in nearby San Martin Jilotepeque. The stylish street-facing space in duck egg blue is at the front, but the magic is found in the open-air courtyard and secluded work space right at the back.
El Gran Café / This tiny, modern spot serves up good brews and vibes, but there’s not much seating or space to hang out for too long. The staff are also really friendly, and happy to answer questions if you’re not sure what to try. One to stop by as you wander!
Alegría Café/Opposite El Gran Café, this is the coolest place and space. It’s got more of a hipster, independent vibe, with various artisan products and small-batch items on sale, and we still regret not buying one of several pieces of art they were exhibiting at the time. This isn’t the coffeeshop in Antigua to come and sit for hours on your laptop though, but rather hang out and chat or read for a little bit.
If you fancy going straight to the source to learn more about the art of the coffee-growing process from bean to brew, there are a few highly-rated finca on a day-trip from Antigua:
· De La Gente, a social enterprise based in Antigua, is dedicated to empowering small-scale coffee farmers and promoting sustainable practices; their tours on a family-run finca provide a unique opportunity to delve into the world of Guatemalan coffee while directly supporting local farmers.
Costing $38 USD per person, you’ll learn about the entire process, from cultivation to harvesting, roasting, and brewing.
· The tour of Finca La Azotea is much shorter than the above at around 60 minutes, but as part of this super popular tour you’ll travel to La Azotea on your own ATV and then visit the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint on the way back. Alternatively, if you have your own transport, you can visit the farm and join the standalone coffee tour for 50Q.
· If you’re looking for something a little more budget-friendly, this highly-rated tour is a good option for a morning or afternoon activity.
Photograph The Arco de Santa Catalina
This pale yellow clocktower arch is the most photographed and recognised site in Antigua, and now firmly established as the city’s main symbol.
You’ll likely already have seen it hundreds of times in your trip planning.
Originally built in the 17th century as part of the Convento de las Capuchinas, the Santa Catalina arch’spurpose was to enable the cloistered nuns – living in strict isolation – to pass between the convent and the church without being seen by the public.
Such discretion would likely be impossible today, as it can sometimes feel like every visitor and vendor is standing on the pretty cobblestone street under the harsh sun at the same time.
That’s why photographers and those who want to take a moment to enjoy the arch without the crowds or in the best light conditions, need to consider when they stop by Arco de Santa Catalina. Not simply to have fewer people and parked cars around, but also because the light falls on both sides to create a very different image with or without Volcan Agua in the background.
Our essential tips are:
· If you stand near Iglesia de la Merced, and look south, you will have the Santa Catalina Arch with Volcan Agua in the distance (if it’s a clear day). The only issue with this angle is that the wall to the right of the arch is in pretty bad condition.
· If you stand on 5a Avenida Norte, behind the arch and looking northwards, you will have the guidebook cover photo with Iglesia de la Merced and its large dome sitting behind it. The streets that frame this image are also freshly-painted yellow so it can make for a prettier photo more generally.
· If photographing in golden hour, shadows can be problematic whichever side you are trying to capture.
· The northern side of the arch is illuminated in the morning, the southern side in the late afternoon / early evening.
· 5a Avenida Norte is usually closed to vehicles on weekends, so that’s generally considered the best time to photograph the arch.
Tip // This street is the busiest and most touristic place in the city, with several restaurants, bars, and cafes on both sides, as well as several families of souvenir sellers. Lots of guides recommend the Nim Po’t market, but there are better places to find and buy better quality Guatemalan crafts and fabrics than there.
Learn Spanish
Antigua is one of the most popular places to learn Spanish in Latin America – and that’s exactly what we did for 10 days on our first visit to the city a decade ago!
That decision, plus the unparalleled Michel Thomas Method, really gave us the solid foundations and confidence we needed for that two-year Latin America odyssey and all our subsequent trips in this part of the world.
If you want to travel better in this part of the world, then it’s the best investment you can make.
Hopefully the pull factors to study here should be clear enough by now: the compact, beautiful setting is fantastically set-up for travellers looking to stay, study, and socialise for a week or more. However, learning Spanish in Antigua (and Guatemala more generally) is also amongst the most affordable you’ll find in the region at around $115-$200 USD for a week of one-to-one classes.
There are an abundance of Spanish language schools to choose from, with most focussing specifically on travellers with one-on-one and group classes, as well as specialisation based on your profession or interests. The courses also include optional cultural activities, like cooking classes, volcano hikes, and dance classes; for those who are really looking to immerse themselves, some schools even offer homestays with a local family .
We had a very positive experience at the Antigueña Spanish Academy, whilst other popular and highly-rated options include the Ixchel Spanish School, CSA The Spanish Academy and La Union.
For some, it will make sense to choose and book everything before you arrive, whilst for slow or long-term backpackers, it’s better to go around to find a good fit and even negotiate a deal.
However, the one drawback to learning Spanish in Antigua is that, because of its ever increasing popularity as a tourist destination, it’s more challenging to actually linguistically immerse and engage. Therefore, if you are really passionate about improving your Spanish, rather than just getting your head around the basics, we suggest considering a language school in less-visited Quetzaltenango.
With that said, we also appreciate that certain people will much prefer what Antigua offers outside of class!
Top Tip // If you are looking to learn some Spanish, then Duolingo really ain’t the way to go (although their podcasts are fantastic for improving listening and vocabulary). We’ve personally used the Michel Thomas Method to learn Spanish and Italian, and can’t recommend it enough – especially if you’re the sort of person who never thought they could learn another language.
We secured 30% discount off any course our readers – just use the code MTMADR on the website.
Visit The Paseo Los Museos Complex
We are still a little confused by the Paseo Los Museos.
It’s a cultural route that links several small museums, crypts, galleries and historical sites in the city, but also brings you through a luxury hotel and chocolate shop.
Housed largely within the remnants of – you guessed it – another convent, the displays, curation and art were a little hit and miss for us, but there is definitely still plenty to learn from and enjoy within the sprawling setting.
The Paseo Los Museos includes the Museum of Silverware, the Museum of Colonial Art, the Pharmacy Museum, the Archaeological Museum, and the Colonial Art Museum.
For us, despite being split on its curation, the VICAL Museo de Arte Precolombino y Vidrio Modern is arguably the most impressive and engaging gallery along the Paseo. It focuses on parallel themes and subjects of pre-Columbian art and modern glass sculpture, which is admittedly a pretty esoteric combination. Whilst we found the space too cluttered and displays too repetitive, meaning the initially interesting and unique concept begins to lose impact, it still has a number of exceptional items of Mayan art.
Where | There are two entrances to choose from. The first is via the lobby of Hotel Casa Santo Domingo (here on Google Maps), after which you’ll find a small kiosk in the courtyard to buy your ticket and get a map. The alternative is round the other side – here on Google Maps
When | It’s open from 9am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday, and 11.45am-6pm on Sundays. We think you need about 90 minutes to two hours.
Cost | It’s 40Q for entry to all seven museums in the Paseo Los Museos.
Know | The Hotel Casa Santo Domingo is amongst the fanciest, most in-demand hotels in Antigua – despite the fact that lots of other people are just wandering around its grounds during the day! That may impact whether you want to stay there or not, but if budget is no issue, you’ll definitely want to check it out.
For more accommodation recommendations to suit every budget and travel style, make sure to take a look at our post on Where To Stay in Antigua
Museo Del Hermano Pedro & Santuario San Francisco
Along the walls of one of Antigua’s most venerated sites, you’ll find crutches, canes, leg braces, casts, and thousands of heartfelt letters on colourful paper.
Each of them given in thanks for a miracle.
Santo Hermano Pedro de Betancourt, Guatemala’s first saint, is buried here in Antigua. In the 17th century, he founded hospitals, schools, and shelters for the poor, and his tomb has long been a place of pilgrimage for Guatemalans who believe it brings miraculous healing for themselves or loved ones.
Even for the non-religious visitor, seeing the devotion, impact and gratitude felt by so many who recovered over decades is quite a moving sight.
That is just one aspect of the visit to Iglesia de San Francisco though; built on the grounds of a 16th-century Franciscan monastery destroyed by that disastrous 1773 earthquake, one can still explore the remnants of the monks’ living quarters, communal spaces, and crypts. There is asmall, simple museum dedicated to Hermano Pedro’s life, whilst the grounds provide a peaceful, pleasant oasis of calm and fantastic views of Volcán de Agua framed by stone and trees.
Where | You can find San Francisco church and convent complex here on Google Maps, but note that the main entrance is at the intersection of 8 Calle Oriente and Calle des Los Pasos, via the car park.
When | Opening times are 8am to 5pm every day, but do note that as the church has scheduled services and masses, visits and access can be restricted at those times.
Cost | Entrance to the ruins and museums is curiously priced at $5 USD for foreign adults and $1 USD for adults, but you can pay this in Quetzal (40Q each on our trip). It’s cash only and note that, as is quite common across Guatemala, entrance fees are significant lower for locals.
If you’d like more context, then this Antigua walking tour includes a stop here.
Know | Standard advice about dress and conduct applies to this church but, importantly remember that this is a place for the faithful and the pilgrims first and foremost – it is critical that every visitors respect them and gives them space + silence. On our visit, it was clear from a few of the visitors just how dearly important this site is to desperate families, with the ill and sick being brought to Santo Hermano Pedro as a last hope.
Lastly, the Capilla de Adoration Perpetua is a chapelon sitereserved for the devout to pray and praise. If you’re passing by it or thinking of going inside, note that silence is mandatory and it’s for worshippers, not tourists or photos.
Go Shopping On The East Side
Walk east from Parque Central along Calle Poniente, and you’ll soon arrive on a sliver of town that is emerging as the enclave for cool businesses. The principles of the clustering effect mean that more will likely follow but, these are our favourites to check out for now:
Wakami // This concept store in a colonial house is focussed on empowerment through ethical fashion. A BCorp focussed on supporting vulnerable women in rural communities, they sell bracelets, bags, and well-made clothing and some homeware.
Nana Tienda Vintage // Cool little vintage shop with a cafe.
CASA VCH // A modern and minimalist boutique that’s home to a gallery, a jewellery brand, a design studio, plus a Scottish-owned vintage clothes shop called Taraba.
Indigo // Sells gorgeous artisanal textiles from various small cooperatives across Guatemala, including fabulous blankets, rugs, and wall hangings.
Not too far away, you’ll also find La Tienda de Doña Gavi. A curio’s cabinet that feels a little like a bruja’s favourite shop, they have fantastic chocolate, candles, and random treasures.
Top Tip// If you’re flying into Guatemala City Airport, most of you will be travelling straight on to Antigua less than an hour away. Find out your transport options, prices and connections in our short explainer post. Alternatively, we can highly recommend the private door-to-door transfer we took when arriving late.
Find Secret Rooftops & Volcano Viewpoints
Whether it’s to enjoy breakfast with a view, find the perfect sunset spot, glug a cold beer after your day trip to Pacaya, or just to seek out a quiet place to sip coffee and read, the secret to elevating any Antigua travel experience is to let yourself be seduced each day by the unparalleled skyline.
Most of the non-ecclesiastical buildings in the city are low, single storey, with many hotels, restaurants, cafes, and bars boasting a rooftop or terrace from where you can see the peaks of Agua and Pacaya volcanoes, map out the colonial grids, gaze over red tile and rusting sheet metal rooftops, appreciate how surprisingly verdant the valley is, and sometimes see Central America’s most active volcano blowing cigar smoke or spitting fire in the distance.
Best done when the skies are clear, there are way more Antigua rooftops and viewpoints than we could possibly mention here, but a few of our personal favourites for views and vibes are:
Cafe Sky Bar / One of the most popular rooftops for travellers, particularly for breakfast al fresco and sundown. Go at night and you have a prime spot to watch Fuego erupting.
Vice Pizzeria/ One of the few dining options open in the centre of Antigua serving after 9pm, this cool restaurant right by the Santa Catalina Arch has a great rooftop to dine on.
Antigua Brewing Company / A great shout for sundowner drinks, the brewery-bar has some of the best beers in town. Whilst the set-up is a little bit too close to an American bar for us, the rooftop and views are top notch.
If beer’s your thing, you should also consider visiting Hector’s Bistro which has a decent selection and another recommendation we have for you later in the post!
Cerro de La Cruz / A manageable walk from the city into the hills along the recently renovated stairs and path. You can make it up in 10-20 minutes at a brisk pace, but those who don’t do much walking may find it takes a bit longer, and there is an option to take a tuk-tuk part way up then walk down. The site closes at dusk, so don’t attempt to go up for sunset. Entrance is free, but one or two chancers may try to sell tickets. Personally, we think it’s only worth doing on clear days when the peak isn’t shrouded in cloud.
Tartines / This traditional French restaurants has the self-proclaimed ‘finest terrace in Antigua’, but we didn’t eat there. However, it was recommended to us by several followers on Instagram. Reservations recommended if you want a table outside – closed Mondays.
Adra/ A really nice flashpacker hostel, and its restaurant and terrace are open to the public too.
The Snug / This is a sociable Irish bar that’s popular with all types of travellers, ex-pats, and a healthy amount of locals too. Free pub quiz on Wednesdays.
Several of our favourite hostels and hotels offer private rooftops too, and this adds a really nice element to any trip. We’ve shared all our recommendations over in this post: The Best Places to Stay in Antigua
Late Nights & Beer Flights
When the stars align, Cafe No Se may just be one of the coolest dive bars in the world.
Dark and labrynthine, it thankfully hadn’t changed a jot since our last visit to Antigua, and remains the place to go for late night drinks.
A bookshop by day, by night it specialises in mezcal and beer with writing and candle wax all over the walls. Just make Sure to follow Bo’s rules…
You can find it here.
Three other spots for social drinks are:
El Ilegal / A little no-frills hole-in-the-wall bar that perennially popular with backpackers, ex-pats and locals. Open until 1am every night.
El Barrio / It’s actually three of four separate bars under one roof, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. However, this is a reliable option for young backpackers wanting to dance the night away until 1am.
El Bosque / For something completely different in the late afternoon and evening, go to this brewery-run open-air beer garden. Set within old farmland and forest, but easily reachable on foot from anywhere in the city, it’s a world away from the hustle and bustle. They’ve got a good selection on tap as well as tasting flights, whilst there are also events, pop-up restaurants, fire pits, and loads of tables to hide away.
Convento de las Capuchinas
We never expected to agree with the logic of a City Council from 1725, but their concern that there were a tad too many convents in Antigua seems fair .
However, their stance fell on deaf ears, and royal assent was granted for the Capuchin nuns of Madrid to build a huge new convent which differed in one key way – it welcomed women from all social backgrounds and no dowry (payment) was required to become a nun there. However, as is clear from a visit to Convento de las Capuchinas, life as a Capuchin nun was strict, solitary, and ascetic.
Architecturally, the site blends Spanish colonial, baroque, and Moorish styles, creating a visually striking complex. The elegant porticoes and bougainvillea of the courtyard are particularly pleasing, but it’s the ‘Tower of Retreat for the Novices’ which is most compelling: the circular structure housed the nuns in tiny rooms, or cells more accurately, and offers a glimpse into the harsh realities of a life dedication and sacrifice.
Ultimately, Convento de las Capuchinas had a relatively short life, as it was abandoned shortly after the 1773 earthquake had ravaged it. In the mid-19th century, the site was purchased by a private family, eventually restored, and later opened to the public as a museum.
Today, Las Capuchinas is one of Antigua’s most-visited ruins, and houses the offices of the Regional Government and the Consejo Nacional de Protección de Antigua Guatemala, which oversees all the UNESCO conservation efforts in the area.
There is also a small museum on the second floor, and peaceful gardens at the back.
Where | You can find Convento Las Capuchinas on Google Maps. If you fancy a splurge, then consider staying at the nearby El Convento Boutique Hotel
When | Open every day from 9am-5pm, but note that during the week it’s busier due to several of the rooms being used as UNESCO offices. We suggest setting aside 45-minutes to an hour for your visit.
Cost | 40Q for adults, paid in cash. There is also a charge stated for those entering with professional cameras, but it seems to be intermittently enforced.
HIKE TO VOLCAN PACAYA
When Emily first visited Volcan Pacaya way back when, the heat from the lava trails was intense enough to melt the shoe soles of many a traveller.
Frequent eruptions from 2006-2010 had firmly established Pacaya as one of the most popular day trips from Antigua and, when anyone tells you there’s a volcano in Guatemala where you can roast marshmallows or cook a pizza, it’s Pacaya they’re talking about!
But that was then.
Pacaya’s reputation and popularity endures, buttressed by proximity to Antigua and the fact that it is probably the easiest volcano to summit in Guatemala. In recent years though, the lava has dried up, the fumaroles hardly smoulder, and the novelty of slightly warmed-up marshmallows doesn’t really hit.
Most tour companies and blogs won’t tell you that, preferring to stick to the legend for obvious reasons.
However, as every traveller arriving in this small Central American country should have aspirations to go up at least one volcano, Pacaya is definitely still the best pick for those who aren’t able or willing to do the much more challenging and intense hikes of Acatenango, Santa Maria, and Tejucilupe.
It’s also a fantastic, manageable day trip option for families and non-experienced hikers.
Know | An active volcano at 2,552 metres altitude, Pacaya is a one-hour drive from Antigua. All hikers on Pacaya must be accompanied by a certified tour guide, and it’s there a national park fee of 100Q for foreign visitors
Book | This is the half-day guided tour we did from Antigua, whilst this is a popular sunset alternative
Plan / Everything You Need To Know About The Pacaya Volcano Hike
Eat Some Incredible Food
The food scene in Antigua has come on leaps and bounds since our last visit, which is great news for travellers.
Rather than hipster places serving up generic western food (though there are more now), several new additions incorporate the country’s fantastic array of produce into modern takes on traditional Guatemalan staples like pepián stew, tostadas, and chile relleno, There’s also a few great picks for veggies and vegans.
We’ve shared all of our favourites and recommendations to help you choose in this post, but three that are particularly worth making note of are:
El Comalote / This is a relatively new addition to the scene, and one of the best places we ate at in Antigua. Underpinned by the fantastic corn tortillas freshly made by the team of ladies in the open kitchen, it’s an ideal place to try a few new flavours. They have excellent vegetarian options.
La Cuevita de Los Urquizú/ An institution in the north of the city, this place is unmissable If you eat meat. It’s easily recognisable from the abundance of clay pots of traditional foods at the front, and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Once Once / The fact we were dreadfully hungover after a late night at Cafe No Sé may have influenced just how much we loved the food here, but the excellent reviews make us certain it merits the lofty praise. This is a stylish vegan restaurant that even the most carnivorous will enjoy, and its thoughtful, foodie menu makes it worth treating yourself. You’ll find it at the back of Wicho & Charlie’s, and it’s probably a good idea to reserve and dress a little better for weekend lunches and dinners.
As mentioned, the area in front of Iglesia de la Merced is a good shout for snacks and street food in the evening but, if you’re a foodie that would like to go a little deeper, consider joining one of these two highly-rated experiences:
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