Planning a stay or day trip to Railay Beach? Our guide’s got you covered.
We left Railay with regrets.
The Ao Nang area of Krabi was our base, and we knew as soon as we arrived that it wasn’t a good fit for our travel style. Overly crowded and overly commercialised, particularly after our time on three paradise islands, the only silver lining was that it encouraged us to leave every day in search of adventure and intrigue.
On one of those days, we realised that Railay Beach is where we should have stayed instead.
Part of the mainland yet only accessible by boat or trail, it’s far from an undiscovered paradise, but remains an unmissable day trip from Ao Nang & Krabi Town. Despite the popularity and proximity to those two, the densely packed peninsula feels closer in looks and tropical vibe to the Thai islands.
And it isn’t just a place to relax and sip cocktails, with adventure and adrenaline to be had as well.
If we had known that in addition to a few stunning beaches and dramatic limestone karsts, it also had a surprisingly decent level of accommodation and restaurants, was a major rock climbing hub and had a very memorable assault course hike in the jungle, then we would certainly have preferred to stay there for a few nights instead of over in Ao Nang.
So, in this guide, we’ll help you decide whether to head over to Railay Beach on a day trip or for a little longer. From advice on transport options and when to visit, to a personal rundown on the best things to do, the beaches, and our pick of places to stay, you’ll also know exactly how to make the most of your time there for your budget and travel style.
This is our guide to Railay Beach, Thailand: the island that isn’t.
The Essentials
Geography / Split into Railay West and Railay East, linked by a 15-minute paved path
Arrive / Frequent longtail boats from Ao Nang and Krabi Town, and ferries / speedboats from elsewhere in southern Thailand
Beaches / Phra Nang is full-on tropical dreams and West Railay Beach is fantastic for sunsets
Scramble / Super popular spot for rock climbers, both beginners and pros. If you want to try it out, consider this highly-rated beginners rock climbing experience
Adventure / Seek out the viewpoint, then activate adventure mode for the Lagoon Trail Climb
Stay / Luxury travellers will love Rayavadee, those looking for a hidden away escape should check out Railay Great View Resort, and Bhu Nga Thani Resort & Villas offers a modern, resort style experience for the mid-range traveller
Blanco Hideout Railay is our pick for young backpackers, but Railay Garden View Resort is another fantastic budget-friendly option if you want to avoid the party scene.
How To Get To Railay Beach, Krabi & When To Visit
You can only access Railay by sea, and most will travel by longboat from either Ao Nang or Krabi Town.
From Ao Nang | It’s a 15-minute journey for 100 baht per person from Ao Nang beach. Departures run regularly from 8am to 6pm, and boats leave when full. Buy tickets and find the boats at the Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club (here on Google Maps). You’ll arrive on Railway West pier.
You can choose to buy a return or a single ticket, but we don’t recommend this for several reasons:
1. There’s no cost-saving for a return-ticket vs. two singles
2. Not all longboats back from Railay will accept the return ticket, so you have to wait around
3. You can buy tickets on Railay Beach for the return leg for 100 baht, increasing flexibility on times and boats
The last scheduled longtail boat departure from Railay to Ao Nang is at 6.30pm, but you can pay more to leave later.
From Krabi Town | Choose from Chao Fah Pier (maps) near the centre, or the further away but more regular and reliable Ao Nam Mao Pier (maps). Travel time is 15-30 minutes, costing 100-150 baht per person depending on the pier.
We’ve shared more details and advice on the above transport options in this post: How To Get To Railay Beach (published soon).
There are less regular direct ferries and speedboats from Phi Phi (90 minutes), Koh Lanta (90 minutes – 2 hours) and Phuket (2 hours); we recommend looking + booking via 12Go.
The best time of year to visit Railay beach is from November to late March/early April. This coincides with peak season, but the dry and sunny weather is what you’ll want in this part of Thailand.
Travel Tip // If you want the best experience of the Railay beaches and trails on a day trip, then we highly recommend setting the alarm early to take one of the first boats over in the morning.
The Best Things To Do in Railay Beach, Thailand
West Railay Beach
When we arrived on the first boat of the morning, this stunning bay was practically deserted.
Just a few early-risers swimming, doing yoga, and restaurants setting out tables for the day ahead.
Returning later in the afternoon, it was rammed, with about 30+ longboats on the shoreline and another 20 or so in the water, and hundreds of sunbathers.
Such a contrasting scene wasn’t unexpected, but Railay Beach – the one which the boats from Ao Nang arrive upon – is thankfully large enough to at least absorb how busy it can become from around 10am in peak season.
Indeed, the further you walk away from the cluster of restaurants and rows of longtail boats – toward Railei Beach Club – the more space, serenity, and better swimming you’ll find, and that’s the direction we suggest you head in if you want to hang out on the soft sand for a few hours.
There is also a boat-free area to the other end of the beach, but space was more limited.
This western-facing beach is also the best place in Railay for sunset. Railay Restaurant (maps) has the ideal position to enjoy it, and we happily had a couple of beers there, but note that the recent reviews for its food + cocktails are awful, so just bear that that in mind…
Where | You can find Railay Beach here on Google Maps. If arriving on the longtail boats from Ao Nang, this is also the place to arrive and catch the boat back.
Know | You can rent two-seater kayaks here, which would be ideal for navigating the peninsula and visiting the best beach and a nearby uninhabited island nearby (more on those later). Prices are 200 baht/1 hour, 300 baht/2 hours, and top out at 800 baht for the full-day.
Stay | There are two accommodation options on this beach, both offering quite a resort-style experience with a large number of rooms (some with private pools or jacuzzis). Railay Village Resortis the more luxurious, with rooms costing up to £475 a night in high season. Railay Bay Resort & Spa is a good alternative if looking for something a little less spenny.
Try Rock Climbing
Adding to the cool vibes on Railay is the fact that it’s a hub for local and international rock climbers. Thanks to the karst limestone formations providing an abundance of natural climbing routes and crags – often starting on the beaches and usually with stunning views – it’s a literal rock climbing paradise in paradise.
World famous amongst climbers, it’s also ideal for total beginners to, um, get to grips with the activity. You can climb year round in Railay, even in rainy season, but the best conditions are November to March/April.
We’re fortunate enough to have done a bit of rock climbing in the UK and northern Italy (alongside Adam Ondra no less!), and if we had known, this would definitely have been in our plans for Railay and incentive enough to spend an extra day (or longer if we wanted to seriously improve our skills).
There are a few rock climbing experiences that you can book online, but this four-hour introduction to rock climbing class is by far the most popular and highly-rated. It can be done in the morning or afternoon, includes pick-up in Ao Nang Beach if you’re not based in Railay Beach, and is limited to four participants to ensure you get enough personal attention.
If you’re interested in doing that, note that it’s absolutely possible to do a half-day experience and still have enough time to see and enjoy the beaches of Railay.
Staying longer in Railay would like to do more serious climbing or a course? Along walking street and on the east side of Railay, you’ll see a bunch of climbing schools and shops. Two popular options include Hot Rock Climbing School and Railay Rock Climbing.
Travel Tip // Serious climbers may prefer to be based on nearby Tonsai, which has more complex routes and fewer day-trippers – we’ve shared more about this beach and area later in the post.
Accommodation in Railay & TonsaI
Given the beauty of Railay Beach (especially considering the rampant mass tourism just across water in Ao Nang), it’s not surprising that an increasing number of visitors choose to base themselves here instead. There’s not a huge number of options available, but what is on offer is of really great quality and caters to everyone from budget backpackers to mid-range holiday makers and luxury travellers.
Staying for a night or two also allows you to enjoy the beaches before and after the day trippers are there.
Hostels / Railay’s two hostels – Blanco Hideout Railay and Social Quarter – are both party spots. Which you choose doesn’t really matter as you can use the facilities of both.
Budget-Friendly / Both located on Railay East, Rapala Rock Wood Resort and Railay Garden View Resortare good options if you’re budget conscious but don’t fancy a hostel. The former offers simple bungalows on a hill plus a guest pool, and the latter more of a treehouse vibe.
Mid-Range / Railay Great View Resortis located at the far north so is a great option for a more chilled experience, and Bhu Nga Thani Resort & Villas offers a modern, resort style stay.
Railay Bay Resort & Spa, located in the centre of Railay and opening out onto Railay Beach, is another good option
Luxury / Synonymous with luxury in Railay Beach is the truly outstanding 5* hotel, Rayavadee. Extending from Railay East, over to Phra Nang Beach, they offer different room types, from ‘deluxe pavilions’ to two-bedroom villas with a private pool, all furnished with luxurious tropical decor of the highest standard. They offer four different dining venues (all only accessible to guests), exceptional service and a large infinity pool with views out over Phra Nang Beach. Expect to pay at least £550 a night in high season.
Railay Village Resorttechnically falls into the luxury bracket due to price (from £375 per night in high season), but it’s not nearly as good.
Tonsai Beach / An alternative to Railay Beach is the less accessible and increasingly popular Tonsai Beach. There’s only a limited number of accommodations available, with Chill Out Bar & Bungalows being our pick for backpackers. Tinidee Hideaway is another popular choice, and offers a variety of rooms from budget dorms to beachfront villas in a more resort style setting.
Phra Nang Beach
This is the beach of Thailand trip dreams and, were it not for the inevitable crowds, may end up being one of the best you visit in this part of the country.
Sapphire blue waters, white sand, and wonderful swimming.
And the best part? It’s free of the long tail boats which clog up so many other beautiful beaches and bays, including over on Railay Beach.
Just try to time it right so you can grab some time here before/after the day trippers and tours descend.
Where | Phra Nang Beach is on the west side of the peninsula, and only accessible on foot. Although it’s just south of Railay Beach, due to hotels blocking off certain routes, most people have to go via Railay East and then follow the paved curving concrete path – it takes 15-20 minutes.
You’ll arrive at the least pretty section, where there’s an ancient fertility shrine and usually rock climber groups, and is likely to be in shade from about 10-2pm. However, continue along the beach to find the prettiest, sun-drenched parts.
Find it here on Google Maps
Know | Long and narrow, the tide can make quite a difference here. When it’s in, you may have to wade a little or time your next move in order to get to the wider and wilder section of the beach. This isn’t helped by the fact that a surprisingly large amount of land / beach has been carved off by the hotels, exclusively for guest use or access*, which can create a bottleneck in sections.
Also, be aware if you’ve chosen to sunbathe in a particularly narrow of beach between the concrete and the waves: it won’t necessarily stay like that for the whole day!
*Non-guests are also not permitted to access the bars or restaurants, and the hotels are strict at enforcing this. For example, the Grotto Restaurant and Khrua Phra Nang Restaurant – the only two places to eat on the beach – are just for guests of the 5-star Rayavadee Hotel. Even items left on their wall will be removed!
Do | The uninhabited karst island of Ko Rang Non juts out above the blue and provides a very photogenic backdrop. It’s possible to walk across to it from the beach at low tide (beware the sharp rocks), or swim if you’re confident in your abilities. However, a more popular option is to rent a kayak to visit it and navigate the rest of Railay. Sunsets are also meant to be pretty dramatic on this side.
Stay | This is the most exclusive area to stay in Railay – but it’ll cost you a healthy wad of cash. The 5* Rayavadee Resort extends from Railay East, over to Phra Nang Beach and is undeniably stunning. They offer a number of different room types, from ‘deluxe pavilions’ to two-bedroom villas with a private pool, all furnished with luxurious tropical decor of the highest standard. They offer four different dining venues (serving excellent food), exceptional service and a large infinity pool with views out over Phra Nang Beach. Expect to pay at least £500 a night in high season.
Cowrie Villas also offer a number of self-contained villas, but they’re more expensive without many of the amenities of Rayavadee Resort.
The Viewpoint Trail…
We have walked, hiked, and scrambled to many a viewpoint on our travels, and this was one of the most unique.
Expecting it just to be a walk up a hill, the rope at the beginning and the sign stating the ‘Trail is strenuous, muddy and slippery when wet. Not recommended after rain. Do not go up after dark‘ should have probably have made us think twice about whether Birkenstocks were the appropriate footwear.
Nevertheless, after pulling ourselves up, then up again, and up one more time, we sweatily arrived 15 minutes later at a lovely elevated vista in the trees overlooking the bay of Railay East.
The distance to the viewpoint is short, but the terrain and requirement to pull yourself up some ropes and get your feet into certain positions on rocks means that it won’t be suitable for every traveller.
However, the climb/walk to the viewpoint is just the beginning…
Where | The sign and start point for the Viewpoint trail is found on the left hand side of the paved path connecting Railay East with Phra Nang Beach – here on Google Maps
Know | Once you are done with the ropes and scrambling, you’ll arrive at a signpost. Go left to find the viewpoint, then continue on the same path and this will eventually loop back to the same signpost. From there, you can decide whether to continue on to the much more challenging and physically demanding Lagoon trail.
…And (Maybe) Do The Lagoon Trail Climb
Depending on your physical condition, your footwear, and the time of day, you can continue on from the signpost to the more physically challenging Lagoon Trail.
This is a climb, not a hike.
Some will find it straightforward, others will find it enjoyably difficult, but there are many visitors who absolutely should not attempt it.
More like a combination of canyoning, scrambling, and rock climbing, the route down to the lagoon involves a series steep rope descents over sharp rocks, slick muddy terrain, and is a bit more of a challenge than many will wish for on their paradise beach day trip!
It’s crucial not to underestimate as, if you get your footing wrong on one of the descents, it could result in a serious accident in a very remote, difficult to access area.
If you are fit, able, and wearing the right footwear, then what lies ahead is a very enjoyable and memorable activity to bring you down though a gorgeous tropical gulley to a beautiful, isolated lagoon. The hike was the first thing we did on Railay, and we were only sharing the lagoon with a handful of others, monkeys scrambling around the sides, birds, and a beam of sunlight.
Unforgettable.
The route there really wasn’t what we expected though, but we personally loved the adrenaline and physical challenge. However, we met a number of others that were really struggling or turned back after realising how treacherous and fear-inducing certain aspects were.
If you have a phobia of heights or unsure about it, we suggest easing yourself in with the viewpoint trail and perhaps the first rope descent, and then you can decide whether it’s really a sensible idea to carry on or not…
Where + When | Find the Lagoon here on Google Maps
Factor in 90 minutes there and back, and it’s the same route and ropes to exit – there is no other way out. If you want to save time or beat the crowds, you should start earlier and do the Lagoon first and then the Viewpoint Loop at the end. As the day goes on, the route and the ropes become more congested, which does detract from the experience.
It’s recommended that people return to the start for 6pm for obvious safety reasons.
Wear | Footwear is the biggest difference maker. We were in Birkenstocks and thin Tevas that we’ve hiked in a bunch of times, and just about got away with it here (Emily’s strapped-on Tevas fared much better). If we were in flip-flips though, we simply wouldn’t have attempted it.
Trainers will be best for grip and stability, but they will get absolutely ruined by the mud and may be written off for the rest of your Thailand trip.
We also highly recommend not attempting it barefoot, and don’t even bother in Crocs.
Also, don’t wear any item of clothing you’re particularly fond of, as it will get caked in mud and sweat.
Whatever time you do it, you will sweat a lot, so bring along plenty of water, and it’s best not to attempt the route with a large or heavy daypack on.
Hold | The ropes are there to make the ups and downs easier, and also make things a bit safer, so do use them. Accidents happen because of being rushed/pressured, so be courteous and do not rush yourself or someone down or up just because there’s a line forming.
See the route and read recent experiences on AllTrails.
Also, make sure you’ve got travel insurance for Thailand.
Know | We were at the lagoon during low tide when there was a not much water and lot of mud (massive slip hazard, and as dangerous as anything on the trail down and up). We learned later in the day that it’s possible to go swimming in the lagoon during high tide as it fills up, and that is also when the water is at its bluest and prettiest.
Eat & Drink on Walking Street
Far more pleasant and less trashy than some Walking Streets you’ll find in Thailand, this is place that holds most of Railay’s bars, restaurants, cafes, shops, massage parlours, and rock climbing companies, as well as a custom tailor, ATM, and Thai rasta at varying levels of baked-ness.
Also known as Bobo Plaza (no idea why), it’s perma-busy but isn’t enclosed and most of the restaurants are open-air with street-facing fronts. This is where most will grab lunch between the beaches.
We had a decent enough pad thai at Railay Thai Cuisine (maps), but there are a bunch of options offering local and international food. Café LÉ Inguz is a great shout for coffee and, for the evenings, Jamaica Bar looked fun.
Where | You can access Railay’s Walking Street straight off Railay Beach – find it here on Google Maps
Know | There are now at least two ATMs on Railay, and a number of businesses take card payments. However, it’s still sensible to take over a bit of cash with you on a day trip, and more if you’re staying for a few nights. There are small convenience shops but, if you need some air-con and more options, there’s the larger, slightly hidden away Railay Minimart (maps) on the shortcut road between the west and east sides.
East Railay Beach
Most accommodation options – from simple guesthouses to five-star resorts – are found on the eastern side of the peninsula, but it’s the functional, workhorse area, rather than a scenic spot.
(we’re obviously grading on a curve here).
The long floating fibreglass pier is the arrival and departure point for Krabi and island tour boats, there’s the bizarre sight of tractors pulling trailers laden down with suitcases on the muddy low-tide beach, and constant long boat deliveries of whatever the hotels require and removal of full black bin bags in exchange – a healthy reminder of the hidden labour, people, and logistics that go into providing places for all of us to stay amidst such beauty and inaccessibility.
Add into the mix that its slender concrete walkway is the main thoroughfare for people to go from Railway West & Walking Street over to Phra Nang Beach & The Viewpoint Trail, and you hopefully get the picture.
We’ve made it sound much bleaker than it will be outside the busiest morning and afternoon hours, but it’s more so that you can appreciate how distinct this side is to the other two beaches, and manage expectations.
East Railay Beach (maps) also isn’t worth getting excited about and this isn’t the side of the island to swim.
The positives are that the area north of the pier has got a bunch more chill & cool cafes, bars and restaurants than Walking Street, mangroves, a few tour agencies and other businesses, and the limestone cliffs and sea still provide an excellent backdrop. Indeed, if we were staying on Railay, we’ve no doubt that this laid-back area is where we’d end up eating and drinking most often, especially in the evenings.
Where | You can find Railay East here on Google Maps. It’s less than 10-minute walk from Railay West via Walking Street. Alternatively, you can take a shortcut via the supermarket + ATM (here on Google Maps).
Know | The concrete walkway isn’t very wide at all, and the waves splash right against it at high tide. Due to this, it can be slippy in parts, so watch your step and be considerate of letting others pass.
Visit | ZEE Cafe, The Last Bar, and the hidden away Tew Lay Bar
Stay | Railay’s two hostels – and Blanco Hideout Railay and Social Quarter – are on this side. However, it doesn’t really matter which you choose, as whilst the Blanco Hideout technically has much better facilities, those staying at Social Quarter can still use them. They are both very party hostels, but the latter seems to go a little harder.
Rapala Rock Wood Resort and Railay Garden View Resortare good options if you’re budget conscious but don’t fancy a hostel, Railay Great View Resortis located at the far north of so is a great option for a more chilled East Railay Beach experience, and Bhu Nga Thani Resort & Villasoffers a modern, resort style experience.
Observe The Monkeys & Responsible Tourism
You will inevitably see a few wild and semi-domesticated monkeys dotted around Railay, often hanging out on walls or rooftop, but also wandering around the paths and plants.
One chap has a cracking pair of bollocks, and seems to enjoy putting them on full display.
Some are used to humans and, unfortunately, most people turn into morons around such animals in certain settings, incapable of treating them with respect or care. Groups form and people understandably want to take pictures, but someone always pushes it too far for a photo, another thinks it’s funny to try and feed them crisps, and everyone just gets too loud, too close, and too interactive.
It really pisses us off – why can’t people just appreciate the special moment of seeing a macaque or a dusky leaf monkey up close in the (sort of) wild!?
With the number of day trippers Railay gets, such scenes are frustratingly common, and all we can do is encourage you to lead by example, and don’t be worried about calling out shitty and irresponsible behaviour.
Enjoy them, but keep your distance, respect the animal, and do not feed them.
Travel Tip // We didn’t have see them or have any issues, but there is a sign up on Railay advising what to do in the rare event that you or someone else gets stung by a toxic jellyfish.
The short answer is ‘don’t piss on it’, and the long answer is to do the following: call for help, calm the injured person, do not rub the wound, and pour vinegar for it for at least 30 seconds (presumably the some restaurants or bars have this in supply…)
Visit Tonsai Beach
A bunch of our Instagram followers raved about Tonsai beach, but we unfortunately didn’t make it over on our day trip to Railay as another beer and hour sunbathing were simply more tempting.
Accessible by boat and a 15-20 minute jungle trail from Railay West, the reputation is that its generally quieter, not nearly as crowded, and more laid-back with simple affordable accommodation options. Unsurprisingly, this makes it a great backpacker option for a base, and is also very popular with rock climbers.
The only downside for some may be that, rather than the soft white sand of Railay and Phra Nang, sheltered Tonsai has more pebbles and rocks, especially when the tide is out.
To be honest, we think there’s more than enough on both sides of Railay to keep you busy on a day trip – especially if you do a rock climbing experience – so we’d actually put Tonsai forward as an option to visit for those of you staying a few days or an alternative base.
Of course, if you’re on a day trip and the crowds on the other beaches do become too much, then you know exactly where to head over to…
Where | You can find Tonsai Beach here on Google Maps
Go | In addition to the short but steep trail from Railay West, you can travel directly from Ao Nang to Tonsai Beach by longboat (100 baht). Note that there are fewer boats back to Ao Nang than from Railay, so try to get a space on one that’s about to head off or join a group.
We’ve also read that you can take a boat direct from Tonsai to Railay.
Stay | There’s only a limited number of accommodations available, with Chill Out Bar & Bungalows being our pics for backpackers. Tinidee Hideaway is another popular choice, and offers a variety of rooms from budget dorms to beachfront villas in a more resort style setting.
Tip | According to reviews, you definitely need to bring insect repellent for the evenings – we use and recommend DEET-free and 100% plant-based Incognito