13 Wonderful Things To Do in Leon, Nicaragua | The Home of The Revolution

Planning to visit León in Nicaragua? Our traveller’s guide has got you sorted!

After twenty minutes, our guide pulled up the faded blue polo-shirt to show us his shrapnel wound.

Millimetres away from the spine, it gave a stark reminder that the sweet, smiling elderly man with whom we were spending this sunny morning had seen and participated in things we’d only experienced in movies.

In the crumbling museum opposite Leon Cathedral, he points to a black and white newspaper cutting of some bell-bottomed teens with flowing locks and rifles: on the left, the smallest of the group, is his 14 year-old self at the start of his journey to becoming a revolutionary.

He then proceeds to go through the rest of the boys in the picture: “died, died, died, died”.

That’s just row one.

The city of León was the stage for several of the most significant scenes in Nicaragua’s political history: a dictator assassinated by a poet, an armed liberation, and student protests violently put down by an autocratic government fifty years apart.

This Central American country’s second biggest city may be encircled by a ring of volcanoes, but the eruptions often take place in its streets.

Steeped in revolutionary folklore, it remains hugely defined by it; you cannot turn around a corner without seeing a statue, mural or testament to a fallen hero. Graffiti here is not solely the tag mark of a frustrated teen, but rather a symbol that generations of fervent political independence and thought still thrives in León.

For the traveller, some may arrive with only a plan to volcano board before heading to the beach or a border, but there’s more to the city than its most famous activity. For our money, Granada is more obviously pretty than León, but the former is a better base due to the number of day trip hikes and transport connections, plus the potential for a spontaneous boozy night in Zona Rosa

Whilst there are a few more boujie hostels and hangouts than our first trip a decade ago, León is very much still an old school backpacker city. Aside from a few streets and behind some colonial doors, it’s not very touristified and you can have as close to an authentic experience as you wish.

Just be prepared for the stifling, scalp-burning heat.

In this guide, we’ve shared our favourite things to do in León to help you plan ahead. We’ve also included tips and recommendations on where to stay, how to get around, and where to eat so you can travel better and make the most of your time.

This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in León, Nicaragua.

Go Volcano Boarding

As this is the prime reason many of you are coming to Leon in the first place, it only seemed right to begin with volcano boarding!

First devised by an Australian (of course) dragging items of household furniture up to the peak of Cerro Negro, volcano boarding has grown to become a rite of passage for travellers in Central America.

A world away from the originator’s experiments sliding down in fridges and on the odd mattress, volcano boarding is now the cash cow of Leon, with hundreds of people trudging through the unforgiving black terrain in colourful jumpsuits to shoot down at speeds of up to 70+ kmph.

As you may already have read and heard a lot about it, we’re not going to go into all the details here. Instead, we’ve written an entire post on what you need to know before you go volcano boarding, so recommend you open that up for a head start on the tours, the costs, the fears, and the mistakes to avoid.

However, we’ve included a few of the essential prep points to get you up to speed below:

1. This is absolutely the most popular thing to do in Leon

2. Tours leave around 9am every day, and are back in the city by 2pm

3. The main operators are Bigfoot and Volcano Day, but there are countless companies offering the tour with a fairly standard approach, including transport, jumpsuit, board rental and English-speaking guide

4. Groups can be massive (too big in fact)

5. Please don’t just think that Leon is only a place to go volcano boarding then leave. As we cover later in this article, so much important modern Nicaraguan history is woven within the story of this city; it’s essential for all well-rounded travellers to experience both aspects of Leon.

Book | You can easily book volcano boarding tours in person by simply popping into one of the offices but if you’d really like to have everything organised in advance, you can either contact the companies directly or consider booking the experience online via an aggregator like Viator or GetYourGuide.

Do be aware however that the latter does usually mean increased prices (apart from this one that is about the same price as going direct), so the only benefit is their excellent 24 hour in advance cancellation policy. This tour is another popular option with good reviews.

Plan | The Volcano Boarding Essentials (published soon)

Know // The non-profit Quetzaltrekkers used to be a great option in the city for volcano boarding and hikes, but it unfortunately closed operations a few years ago. However, they still operate hikes for good causes in Guatemala – we did a three-day one with them this year – and we highly recommend checking them out if you’re heading there.

The Rooftop of León Cathedral

The greying, dappled walls of Catedral de la Asuncíon de María de León have withstood earthquakes, eruptions, and civil wars.

Whether divine protection or the robust design of its low, thick towers, it has enabled León Cathedral to be a reassuring constant amidst the occasional chaos.

The main landmark in the city’s pigeon-filled plaza and one of Nicaragua’s three UNESCO World Heritage sites, it took nearly seven decades to complete, with the mish-mash of Baroque to Neoclassical styles pointing to the changing tastes and various architectural influences across the 18th and 19th centuries.

Its position as the largest cathedral in Central America also underlines the importance and influence of Leon in the colonial period.

Or, it was simply all a mistake.

Some maintain that there was a mix-up with plans, and that this Cathedral should in fact be in Lima, Peru. Others talk of the local clergy pulling a fast-one by submitting plans for a much more modest structure to the Spanish, and then building exactly what they wanted whilst the Spaniards weren’t looking (we like to think it’s the latter).

It is quite plain and austere inside, and beneath the floors are crypts holding the bodies of eminent Nicaraguan poets and politicians. The main draw for travellers however is the dazzling white rooftop – which instantly drew comparisons the Cycladic Greek islands for us.

This is absolutely one of the best things to do in Leon, and as you walk between the domes you’ll be treated to incredible panoramic views of the city and walking between the domes.

Where + When | You can find the Cathedral in Parque Central de León (maps). This is the epicentre of social life and daily business in the city, and you’ll pass through it and by the Cathedral several times as you wander around.

It’s open every day from 8 am-12 pm & 2.30-5 pm, but times may vary for religious services.

You should set aside at least 30-60 minutes for your visit and, if you can time it for golden hour or sunset, the experience will be more memorable. We also happened to be going down just as a bell ringer was starting his work at 6pm, and that was a real joy to see.

Cost | The price for foreigner rooftop tickets is $3 US / 100Q per person, cash only. To buy them, it’s necessary to go to a little doorway on the side toward the back (opposite the Mcdonald’s onCalle de Rubén Darío), which may or may not be staffed by a refreshingly grumpy man who may or may not give you a smile if you compliment his boots.

You then need to take those tickets to another small entrance at the back, from which it’s a manageable walk up to the top.

Know | It is vital that all travellers dress and act appropriately within, as well as on the roof of León Cathedral. The most important religious building in the city, it is a place of active worship and you should respect it and all those coming here to pray or join a ceremony. Dress sensibly and modestly (shoulders and back covered, no short shorts), remove your hat inside, and be aware of your surroundings and others when taking any photos or videos.

Full-on photo shoots are forbidden, as is standing on the cupolas – with the latter a key step to doing your bit to support its conversation and preservation.

* Three young guys were painting the rooftop whilst we visited, so it was resplendent perfection. We don’t know if it’s an ongoing project like the Forth Road Bridge once was, or that was the only touch up they’ll do in five years, so do let us know in the comments if it’s still like that or has become a more grey than Greek.

don’t forget The city’s many other churches

We don’t expect you to visit them all, but you should pop in or past a few as you get to know the city.

Iglesia La Recolección (maps) | The Cathedral may have the panoramic views, but for us, the late 18th century Iglesia La Recolección is the prettiest – in big part to its striking golden yellow colour, the beauty of which has not faded despite its aged facade. If you only have time to check out a couple of the city’s churches, make it this one.

Iglesia de San Juan Bautista de Subtiava (maps) | Built in the 1530s and reconstructed in 1710, ‘Catedral Subtiaba’ is the oldest church in Leon. It plays an important role during the ‘Feast of San Jerónimo’, when processions journey between it and the Cathedral.

Iglesia de San Francisco (maps) | Constructed in 1639, this is one of the city’s older churches and whilst the exterior is rather simple, inside it holds two quite wonderful altarpieces that are worth checking out. The attached convent was badly damaged during the fighting of 1979, but has since been refurbished and converted into Hotel El Convento.

Santuario de la Merced (maps) | Dedicated to León’s patron saint, La Virgin de la Merced, this church is considered to be the city’s second-most-important after the Cathedral. Having been rebuilt several times owing to fire, volcanic eruptions and earthquakes, the current iteration of the main building is from the early 18th century, whilst the tower (oddly not in line with the facade) was reconstructed in the 19th century, and the interiors modernised in the 20th century.

Iglesia El Calvario (maps) | We noticed this stunning church at the end of Calle Real from several streets away, its symmetrical and colourful facade of red and white, striking in the distance. First built in 1764 as a hermitage of the Calvary (the site of Jesus’ crucifixion), earthquakes forced its reconstruction in the late 19th century.

As with many buildings in the city, this church bore witness to tragic events in Leon’s modern history when on February 15, 1979, five young members of the United Peoples Movement were murdered by the National Guard in the north bell tower of the church while carrying out a civic protest. A commemorative plaque on the church’s facade marks the event.

Do Nothing & Wander

If you’re a long-time reader of Along Dustry Roads, you’ll already know just how much we adore travelling in Central America, and how much of the joy comes from simply doing not very much at all.

If you’re a new reader, then welcome to the ‘Dusty Travel Club’.

Whilst we think Granada is the more architecturally beguiling of the two Nicaraguan cities – and also our favourite if we had to choose – the hot, hectic streets of Leon offer so much for the outsider to puzzle over, admire, question, marvel, support, and embrace.

Go to non-gringo centric comedors for a lunch or dinner that may just be your best, or into the markets and order something totally random. Sit on a bench in one of the smaller parques and people watch. Find a backstreet bar that you really think we should recommend here (or keep it all to yourself). Buy watermelon slices or peanuts in clear plastic bags. Think about what the daily grind means here. Shazaam a track blasting out of packed pick-up trucks stuck in traffic. Count the icons, crosses, and other symbols of faith. Go where you can hear live music. Pay a bit extra to be taken home in the pedi-cab. Speak to someone from the place, rather than about the place with another traveller.

A few places to shape your wanderings are the Mercado Central de León (maps) and Mercadito De Sutiava on the outskirts (maps), but we are very much advocates of following your nose and your gut too.

Travel Tip // Whilst wandering around with cameras and curiosity is what we like to do, if your time is limited or you’d prefer to be in a group, this popular ‘free’ walking tour of Leon is worth checking out. We haven’t done it, but they have many excellent reviews and may be a good option for an English-speaking introduction to shape your stay.

They meet every day at 9am and 4pm at in Plaza Central Juan José Quezada, but note though that whilst the tour is free to join, you are expected to tip the guide on a ‘pay what you want’ basis.

It’s also mandatory to reserve your free place in advance.

Alternatively, if you’d like to go deeper or don’t fancy being in a big group, consider joining this highly-rated private walking tour which can be catered to your own interests.

Museo de la Revolución (The Museum of the Revolution) 

‘Those who haven’t been in war don’t know what war is.’

Our guide Marcelo lost all his family, and was imprisoned and tortured for 27 days.

And he talks it about it almost every day.

In the Museo de la Revolución on the corner of Parque Cathedral, the paint is peeling, the newspaper clips yellowing, and there’s usually several pigeons trapped in a pink room pockmarked with bulletholes.

Staffed by a group of ageing revolutionaries, this place was the most enduring experience from our first trip to Leon, and we were eager to return. Not because it houses any great value or ancient artefacts, but because you hear history directly from those that shaped it.

A place where Sandinistas will show you their wounds, explaining what they endured and why.

Mostly pictorial with a plethora of fading black and white photos and framed newspapers, it shows the timeline and progression of the 20th century conflicts which define modern day Nicaragua: Sandinista’s emergence and Somoza Garcia’s assassination in Leon to the rise of dictatorship, the revolution, and the US-backed Contras.

The neoclassical building was itself part of this history, the Palace of Communications taken over by revolutionaries, and its decaying state is part of its photogenic appeal (and it feels fitting that it ages and bears the same scars alongside the guides).

So, in short, this is absolutely the sort place one should seek out on travels.

There is a catch though: those with no or minimal Spanish will be limited to reading the odd translation and enjoying the photography or murals. The guides do not speak English, and on our last trip Andrew acted as translator for group of about 20 people (you don’t know how much Spanish you actually know until you’re translating in that environment!). So, we highly recommend trying to tag along with a Spanish speaker from your hostel, or joining a group if you see someone translating.

Where + When | Open 9am-5pm Monday to Saturday, closed Sundays. You will need about an hour for your visit, but note that the groups and guides don’t really run according to a schedule, so those who turn up might have to join a group that’s already set off.

Cost | There is no fixed fee, but donations are encouraged. We each gave 100 Cordoba which, from Marcelo’s response, seemed more than fair so 50-100 per person is probably in the ballpark

Ironically, the museum receives no government support.

Know | “There’s concrete underneath, don’t worry”. At the end of the tour, you will be led to the top floor and a rusting rooftop of thin corrugated sheets flapping in the gusts. White spray-painted arrows indicate the route to a viewpoint, where a guide may ask you to pose with a tattered red and black FSLN flag.

The roof is not in good condition, so we will leave it to your judgement on whether it’s worth walking to the viewpoint or not.

Tip // There is another very small martyr’s museum just around the corner: Galeria de Heroes y Martires. We headed there afterward but, after hanging around for 10 minutes, were told by a nurse next door that the old lady who runs it ‘doesn’t always turn up’, and this proved to be the case on the two other occasions we stopped by. You can find it here on Google Maps, but the listing is now down as ‘permanently closed’ 

Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Centre

This gallery is unmissable, and we wish we knew that before we arrived in Leon for a second time.

Established by Nicaraguan philanthropists Ramiro Ortiz Mayorga and Patricia Gurdián de Ortiz, the foundation reflects their commitment to cultural and artistic development in Nicaragua, and Latin American art more generally.

An incredible space set across large restored colonial properties across the street from each other, the fact that we missed it on our first trip possibly talks to our differing priorities, personal growth, or subtle shifts in our travel style.

Undoubtedly, it’s one of the best art galleries we’ve visited in Central America, with a broad range of schools, styles, and periods on display, so everyone will find something that catches their eye. There are works by Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, and Fernando Botero, and notable Nicaraguan artists such as Alejandro Arostegui and Armando Morales.

There’s also a smattering of European works.

The setting and architecture of the colonial properties are a joy to wander around (worth the entry fee alone), but we found the layout a little confusing to work out / navigate, as feels like multiple rooms across two large properties, rather than the six casas (houses) referred to by the map and gallery. If in doubt and you speak Spanish, the security guards were happy to keep us right!

Where + When | In the historical centre, the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art is a five-minute walk from the cathedral – find it here on Google Maps. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 10 am–5.30 pm, closed Mondays, and is a great shout for when it’s too hot to explore outside.

Tickets | It’s 125 cordobas for foreigners, cash on the door – we can’t recall which entrance / side of the street to buy tickets from, so do let us know in the comments which one it is, or if they both sell.

Note that the free Sunday entry only seems to apply to locals, but profits from the gallery support a variety of health treatments that the foundation also facilitates, so one shouldn’t moan.

If Only We Knew | How deceptively large the site was, and how much we’d enjoy a lot of the collection, then we’d have set aside two to three hours here.

Hike Volcan Telica

There’s a local guy who stoically trudges up to the crater rim every afternoon to sell beers to thirsty hikers.

When he started to run, we knew things were serious.

Volcan Telica is one of Nicaragua’s most active volcanoes, with frequent grumblings and blasts, and we’d put our overnight hike in our top three experiences across two Nicaragua trips. So, whilst volcano boarding is the bucket list cash cow, Telica is the reward for travellers who choose to stay longer in Leon.

Camping there, with the constant soundtrack of the smouldering Telica far too close to us for comfort, is something we’ll never forget (dark underwear highly recommended).

The hike itself, steep and hot due to a late morning departure, will be achievable for most travellers with a decent level of fitness. In comparison to Volcan Concepcion the previous week, this was much more enjoyable and pleasant on the legs, but you will be expected to carry up + back much of what you require (though some companies may offer a porter service).

If you don’t have the time or inclination to do an overnight, then it’s also possible to visit the crater rim on a day trip from Leon – this usually involves some hiking, time up at the crater, and enjoying the sunset before heading back to the city. This group tour has excellent reviews.

We recommend only doing this hike with a tour and guide – indeed we’re not certain how one would actually get here independently given the terrible road in/out that you can’t do with public transport.

Volcano Day is who we went with, and we had a mixed experience. Formed by a local guide from the ashes of Quetzaltrekkers, it’s grown to become the biggest tour operator in town and is 100% Nicaraguan-owned (though relies on foreign volunteers). They purport to have the same values as QT, but the set-up appeared to have become too unwieldy and disorganised for the space and numbers.

Do check them out though and let us know! Tours can be booked in person or via their website.

You can also book this highly-rated Telica day trip from Leon, whilst there are a variety a sunset + overnight tours avaliable to book here on Viator.

Plan / The Essential Guide To Hiking Volcan Telica (published soon)

other Volcano Day Trips

If you’re planning your first trip to Nicaragua (or Central America), then it’s important to know that you have to pick and choose just how many volcano hikes and visits you can afford, enjoy, and factor into your itinerary.

We’ve spent about 14 months in Central America over several trips, and there are still many volcanoes we simply couldn’t make time for!

So, whilst volcano boarding takes all the fame and footfall, travellers who love to hike and be in the outdoors should know that Leon is the best basecamp in Nica.

In addition to Volcan Telica and Volcan Boarding, you can also do day trips or overnights to:

El Hoyo |  A three-hour hike to a sinkhole and ‘volcanic complex’, it’s meant to have some awesome landscapes. There’s the option to do it at sunrise, pair with Lake Asososca, or include camping so you can witness both the rise and set.

San Cristobal | A hike up Nicaragua’s tallest volcano, with the option to include camping

Cosiguina | Moderate difficulty hike to a beautiful crater lake

Motombo | An early morning start and difficult 3-4 hour hike to the summit, with the option to include camping.

If you have limited time, we recommend sorting out these trips before you arrive or on your first day in the city. Note that cancellations may occur due to volcanic activity (or at least they should).

Also, we’d love you to let us know your experiences and favourites out of these hikes to help other travellers like you plan their Leon visit!

As ever, do be aware that volcano tourism and altitude hiking is never risk-free. Everyone visiting Nicaragua and Central America should have travel insurance – we use TrueTraveller

Eat, Stay or have a pool day At Coco Calala

We’re vegetarian (pescatarian by the coast!) and, after travelling in Central America so many times, have got into a groove when it comes to frustrations one has when eating out – and the compromises you have to make at times.

Therefore, on the most recent trip, we were elated that there had been such a growth in local and internationally-owned vegetarian restaurants.

Coco Calala was probably the best – and non-veggies will not want to miss it either.

The lush plant-filled courtyard restaurant is a vibe, the thoughtful menu gets the balance right between healthy and meat-free treats – like hot dogs and burgers – and the portions are big. We ate here a couple of times for breakfast and lunch, and everything was delicious (though the coffee could improve).

Where + When | Find it here on Google Maps.

Open seven days a week from 8am-9pm (5.30 pm Sundays) – note that the space is in an open-air courtyard, so if it’s wet or cooler weather, bring something.

There’s also a gorgeous little plant-lined pool, which can either be an oasis of calm or a bit livelier. For customers who have had breakfast or lunch in the restaurant, it’s 100 cordoba per person to use the pool, or it’s 150 cordoba for an adult day pass.

If you’re on a backpacker budget, Coco Calala will be a treat splurge, so save it for a hangover, post-volcano hike day or when you’re really in need of a lift (which can happen on the road), and take advantage of the pool.

Stay // As we made a very last-minute decision to change our itinerary and head all the way over to Utila to learn to dive for the last chunk of our latest trip, we also ended up spending a couple of nights at Coca Calala.

This is the room we stayed in, but you can find all the listings on the host’s profile page.

The Martyrs & The Murals

On July 23, 1959, a group of students from the National Autonomous University of Nicaragua (UNAN) in León organised a peaceful protest against the regime of President Luis Somoza Debayle, son of the late dictator Anastasio Somoza.

Loyalist soldiers opened fire on the demonstrators, with scores of students killed, and the event intensified the revolutionary spirit in Nicaragua and increased support for the FSLN.

The date is seared into the city’s memory, and defined much of its political identity in the second half of the 20th century.

Following the eventual fall of the Somoza family, the arts became an integral part of political expression in the ‘new Nicaragua’. Seemingly overnight, ‘mural brigades’ spread across the country, but many of these were defaced or destroyed following the landmark democratic political defeat of the FSLN in the 1990s.

This wasn’t the case in Leon, and will see several large-scale murals commemorating July 23rd in the historical centre, with several including portraits of the martires (martyrs), as well as other street art works of varying size and quality. Usually they’re political and historical, depicting scenes of struggles against the Somoza dictatorship or a homage to local revolutionaries like César Sandino and Carlos Fonseca.

However, we noted a shift between our first visit in 2015 and our return in 2022. Daniel Ortega, the revolutionary turned elected President turned immovable authoritarian, faced a wave of demonstrations across Nicaragua in 2018 for his social security policies; the violent government crackdown only increased the volume, severity, and length of protests. Leon, with its political history and sizeable student population, was unsurprisingly at the forefront of these, including an occupation of the UNAN-Leon university 

Both President Ortega and his wife, the Vice President Rosario Murillo, outlasted the protests, staying in power and forcing a number of political opponents into silence, exile or prison.

And this is still the case today.

There is the obvious irony of history repeating itself in several ways, and a revolutionary hero living long enough to become the villain. It is also the likely explanation for our sense that the murals about student protest in Leon were either not as numerous or visible as before, or perhaps they had been moved or replaced in the intervening period.

Nevertheless, we mention it here as a lot of travellers aren’t actually that aware (or that interested) in what’s going on in Nicaragua politically – but the reality is that there remains much discontent with Ortega’s government and the situation is unpredictable.

Travel Tip // One of the largest murals envelops th Cancha 23 de Julio basketball court, and right next door to this is Bar El Mirador (Google Maps). Their terrace is a great shout for a sunset drink with views over the skateboarders and basketball players in front of the murals of revolutionaries heroes and plaques of fallen martyrs. It’s as popular with travellers as it is with locals these days, but prices remain reasonable. Open every day until midnight, extending to 2am on Fridays and Saturdays.

A Beach Day At Las Peñitas

Nicaragua is famous for its surf and its beaches, but most of the chatter is weighted toward the stretches and enclaves south of Managua.

Stopping off at places like San Juan del Sur, Playa Maderas, and Popoyo – just a hop across the Costa Rican border – are no-brainers for those who ride the waves, and they’re always popular with backpackers due to the vibe and gorgeous setting on the Pacific Coast.

The quiet northern stretch from El Transito up to Jiquilillo definitely goes comparatively under the radar.

Las Peñitas, just a thirty minute ride in a big old school bus from the city, is the place which may change that.

Not an off-the-beaten path destination due how many travellers pass through León, but it certainly isn’t viewed as such an essential stop as the more developed traveller hubs further down the coast.

Many Nicaragua itineraries won’t include it, and those travelling on shorter schedules could be forgiven for thinking that there’s no point taking up a day to surf here in the north when they’ve already factored in a week or so down south (that’s exactly what we did first time round in Nicaragua).

This little beach village and fishing community between two rivers and next to a sprawling mangrove forest, is however certainly worthy of at least a day of your time.

If you’re based in León for a while and looking to escape the traffic, the bustle and the heat, or simply rest your aching limbs after several volcano summits, then it’s the ideal day trip to do independently and affordably.

You can easily get there independently by bus, whilst several tour companies in the city also include a complimentary shuttle there after volcano boarding – read our guide to La Peñitas for all the transport details.

An excellent place to have your first surf lesson – at least until the waves become a frenzy of local experts and a clueless Italian man – with waves to rival more known breaks for the experienced. 

Plan | Our Guide To Las Peñitas

Stay | Mano a Mano  – Simple Beach Lodge  – Aaki Hotel – Nayal Lodge Hotel 

The Museum of Traditions & Legends

No hyperbole: this is the weirdest museum we’ve ever visited.

Set in a notorious former prison, the building lay abandoned from 1979. In the past decade or so, it was rehabilitated into hosting juxtaposing exhibits of torture interrogations that occurred within these walls during its time as a jail, but also Nicaraguan fairytales, myths, folklore and legends.

The latter is more of the focus now, and we really enjoyed some of the balls-out-on-the-table crazy stories. 

It transpired that being a gentleman in Nicaragua comes with more concerns than whether your moustache is correctly twirled or the price of a can of Toña, as many of these myths seemed to revolve around a spurned woman haunting or killing errant men. 

One concerns a lady, considered too unattractive to marry, who died alone. Since her death, she is said to wander the streets at midnight, exposing herself to drunks and smothering them with her sizeable breasts.

Some may agree there are worse ways to go. 

The little museum, though quite tired in parts, is unique and a perfectly enjoyable way to spend half an hour or so, most of it with a smile on your face. We do highly recommend making use of the available guide though, as without him you’ll simply wander around staring in bemusement, fear and/or wander at the bizarre mannequins used to represent the legends.

Where + When | A few blocks south of the cathedral, you can find the Museum of Traditions and Legends here on Google Maps. It’s open 9am to 4pm, Monday to Saturday, and closed Sundays. 

Price | 50 cordobas, plus a tip for guide

Know // We are slightly ashamed to admit that on our two trips we’ve never actually made it to the ruins of old Leon. The first of Nicaragua’s three UNESCO World Heritage sites, León Viejo marks the site of one of the earliest Spanish colonial settlements in the Americas. It was established on the shores of a lake in 1524 and ultimately abandoned due to the impact of eruptions and earthquakes. Buried under the ash of Volcan Motombo in 1610, it is recognised as an excellent example of the initial approach to settlements and building by the Spanish colonists, but it supposedly takes some effort or a very good guide to appreciate them.

You can find them here on Google Maps, an hour’s drive from the centre of Leon. Visit on a tour or by taking two buses (León to La Paz Centro, then connect to a bus for Puerto Momotombo).

Coffee Shops, Hangout Spots & Backpacker Alley

Slightly less magical than Diagon Alley but with more than a few weird potions – still haven’t forgotten that Bigfoot lava challenge shot after Emily’s fastest female time – this street has long been the hub of all things backpacker in Leon.

Populated with hostels, bars, surf outfitters, laundries and tour operators, whether it’s a party, a pizza or some clean pants and a bus ticket, everything a traveller could want or need can be found here. The concentration of gringos is largely driven by the presence of Bigfoot Hostel and Via Via – two big, long-standing budget hostels – and most volcano boarding trips arrive and depart from here.

If you’re in a social mood, ViaVia’s pool table and occasional live music is a good shout, but it was hit and miss on our last trip (and way more expensive than it should be). They also host a weekly pub quiz – it was on Monday’s when we visited.

Despite it’s ease as a foreign traveller, we do implore you make sure the start, middle, and end of your Leon experience isn’t always in and around this street (we’re convinced some people never actually leave it). We also think there are way better places to stay for couples and travellers that aren’t on a strict dorm budget.

Backpacker alley is found on 2da Avenida NE, a 10-minute walk from the Cathedral and Parque Central (find it here on Google Maps).

For more of a local’s vibe and soundtrack, the area around Parque de los Pietas (maps) is known as the ‘Zona Rosa’ and is the nightlife hub. This comprises a few bars, dance halls, restaurants and food trucks, but the vibe and busy-ness can really depend on the evening.

Eating & Drinking in Leon

Mañana Mañana (maps) | This place has the best coffee in town, with a modern space to chill or laptop for a couple of hours. Dutch-owned, it has an outdoors space at the back. Open 7am-9pm

Pan y Paz (maps) | A longstanding favourite of travellers, this French bakery now has two places in town; we suggest the one furthest from the cathedral as it’s a bigger, more pleasant space. Closed Sundays.

El Desayunazo (maps) | On the north side of 2da Avenida Norte, this is a nice little place for ginormous breakfasts catering to whether you want local or international that day. Really nice staff, open from 6am.

El Bodegón (maps) | Mostly Mexican with a smattering of Nicaraguan and Latino dishes, the ceviche was excellent and they make a mean michelada. Lots of veggie options to boot.

Sua León Cocina Mediterránea (maps) | Not quite as Mediterranean as the name would suggest, one of Leon’s nicer restaurants serves up a smorgasbord of international cuisine but is particularly known for its pizza and pasta – the former being a decent option in Nicaragua.

Restaurante El Sesteo (maps) | The food seems pretty hit or miss, but this is a good spot to have a cold Toña in the main square and watch the world go by.

Cerro Negro Taproom (maps) | Part of a larger, locally-owned and locally-made brewing company, you can sample various craft beers by the pint or flight in this popular bar. We didn’t eat here, but the reviews suggest you may want to stick to the booze…

Batidos Pitaya (maps) | If you need a break from corn, carbs and canola oil, consider grabbing one of Pitaya’s healthy smoothie bowls (which are almost as pretty as the colour scheme).

The pretty-in-pink Kiss Me (maps) is a popular ice cream shop in Leon but we didn’t try it. Some rave about it, but it seems pretty pricey by Nicaraguan standards.

Looking for somewhere to party? Where you go depends on whether you want to be surrounded by backpackers, or you’d prefer to hang with the locals.

The bar at Bigfoot Hostel, Via Via and the DJ nights at The Spot Hostel are where you’ll find the gringos, but for a more Nicaragua experience head to José de Marcoleta, west of Plaza Parque Central – Bar 23 (maps) is particularly popular.

Time Your Visit For a Parade

Embark on a long-term trip through Central America, and it can sometimes feel as though there are festivals, processions and parades on an almost bi-weekly schedule.

Whilst the reality is a little different, the enthusiasm with which locals participate in annual events (from full-on costumes and floats to lining the streets ten-fold deep) means that if you do happen to be in town when a celebration is timetabled, there will be no escaping the crowds, the fanfare and the inevitable firecrackers.

And Leon is absolutely no different.

We were actually lucky enough to be there for a large procession and city-wide festivities during our first visit to the city. As across all Latin American countries, Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) is probably the most famous festival, when the world stops to mourn and then celebrate, towns and cities come to a standstill and crowds swell, but there are a few more important festivities that you need to be aware of before committing to a solid itinerary that passes through Leon.

14th August | Known as the Griteria Chiquita, this is a celebration carried out in in honour of a promise made to the Virgin Mary for protection against Cerro Negro’s violent eruption in July 1947.

15th September | Nicaragua’s Independence Day, expect parades of armed forces, the police, various government offices, and children. We’ve witnessed a few different independence celebrations in Latin America and they’re always really good fun!

24th September | Celebration of the Virgen de la Merced (or Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes), the patron saint of León, which involves traditional masses and then a procession through the city’s main streets.

29th & 30th September | The Feast of San Jerónimo, which involves processions between the church of Sutiaba and the Cathedral in honor of San Jerónimo, accompanied by folk dancing and drumming.

December | Throughout all of December you will spot giant dolls in colourful dress and jewellery throughout the city (‘Gigantona’s). These are said to represent Spanish women, and speak to the city’s resistance against Spanish colonisation. You can find some of these Gigatonas in the Museum of Folklore.

7th & 8th December | ‘La Purisima’ or the ‘La Griteria’ takes place all over Nicaragua, but is one of the city’s most important, created to celebrate the Conception of the Virgin Mary. It’s a very joyful festival with fireworks, music, dancing and singing, and many people will place altars outside their doors to which those passing by shout “Que causa tanta alegría?” (who causes so much joy?). Those within the house respond with “La Concepción de María!” and hand out gifts or sweets.

12 & 13th December | Masses, fireworks, parades, bulls and fairground rides – it’s quite the combo of celebratory antics in honour of Santa Lucia.

Where To Stay in Leon

We’ve stayed in several different areas in Leon, at a starkly different levels of budget, so have a pretty good understanding of the city’s layout, what’s on offer and important things to consider before booking your stay.

On our first visit, the vast majority of accommodations were located along 2da Avenida NE (‘Backpacker Alley’). However, as tourism to Leon has increased, so too have the accommodation options, with hostels and guesthouses spreading out across the historic centre and beyond.

Whilst our first four nights in the city on our last trip were spent a 15-minute walk from the centre (at the lovely Al Sole Guesthouse), we’d say that for most people 2da Avenida Norte is probably a better location these days, with a few nicer hostels and guesthouses, as well as plenty places to eat and drink.

Hostels

Poco a Poco | Highly regarded by lots of our followers, this place – three-time winner of the best hostel in Nicaragua – offers good privates and decent doubles, a large courtyard and lots of excellent social areas, a guest kitchen (but also offers breakfast) and even has a small pool. It’s sociable but not a party hostel.

Tortuga Booluda | Our pick if you’re looking for a super chill hostel in the heart of Leon. The rooms are large and comfy, the common areas really welcoming and it’s got a great kitchen. Also has a small pool to cool off in.

The Spot Hostel is a popular choice but it has mixed reviews.

Whilst many solo and budget backpackers are drawn to Bigfoot Hostel and Via Via on 2da Avenida NE, they’re much more suited to those looking to party, and the rooms aren’t great.

After our itinerary changed last-minute so we could go learn to dive in Utila, we ended up coming back to Leon for a third time to take a verrrrry long shuttle bus journey to Honduras. This required a one-night complimentary stay in a dark, hot, windowless dorm at Bigfoot and, despite having stayed in some truly awful rooms over the last 10 years of Along Dusty Roads, that experience is a big part of why we’re haven’t bunked in a dorm since.

Airbnbs & Guesthouses

Coca Calala | After a delightful breakfast in their vegan cafe, we knew we had to return for a few nights in this gorgeous guesthouse. Half colonial property, half botanical garden, the lush and stylish Coca Calala is a gorgeous place to spend a few nights – especially given the wonderful pool area. We would probably advise against staying on the weekend however as they offer day passes to the pool and we imagine it gets very busy!

This is the room we stayed in, but you can find all the listings on the host’s profile page.

Al Sole Guesthouse | This is the first place we stayed on our return to Leon, and whilst it’s a little out of the way (around a 15-minute walk from the centre), that meant it was super calm and had a wonderful local residential feel to it. Catering to couples and solo travellers that enjoy a relaxed environment, the guesthouse itself is lovely with a pool and tropical garden feel. The rooms are great, colourful, well decorated and come with private bathrooms. There’s a guest kitchen and they include a free breakfast.

Hostal Casa Abierta| This lovely guest house has excellent rustic-style rooms in a beautiful setting with a large pool set in a tranquil garden. There’s an on-site restaurant too. A real oasis in the busy, hot city.

Casa de Los Berrios| This budget friendly family-run guesthouse is full of colonial charm and wonderful owners that go out of their way to improve your stay.

Leon doesn’t have an abundance of apartments on Airbnb, but if you need you own space to get some work done, take a look at Casa Mango, Casa Adobe or this three-bed if you need some extra space.

Hotels

There isn’t an abundance of fancy hotels in Leon, but if you’re looking for a more luxurious stay in a central location, Hotel la Perla is our top pick (although Hotel El Convento is a popular alternative).

Transport & Getting Around Leon

In Leon

Whilst the intense heat and traffic congestion can be a bit overwhelming at times, the centre of Leon is flat and very walkable. You do need to plan your wanderings around the temperatures though, and it’s a very good idea be inside or in the shade due the peak afternoon sunshine.

The layout is in the typical colonial grid system of colonial cities in Central America, with Plaza Parque Central the main reference point that you’ll pass through or by several times a day wherever you’re based.

Whilst you can easily walk around much of Leon, most will require transport to/from the two bus terminals for day trips or independent onward travels elsewhere in Nicaragua. These are found in two markets in the east and west of the city – Mercado La Terminal (maps) and Mercadito De Sutiava (maps).

There are three options to do this, and we’ve shared guideline prices below – please do let us know in the comments if they change dramatically:

· A place in a colectivo (shared) taxi should be 40C per person across town – though many try to charge more, especially when you have big backpacks for the boot.

· Bicycle taxis (bici-taxis) are 20C per person, but they have some restrictions on where they can / cannot go, have to stop at 6pm, and may charge 30C per person.

· Regular pick-up trucks depart outside the Cathedral, and pass various other streets. These are the primary more of transport for locals in/around the city, but they won’t be feasible if you’ve got loads of stuff with you, especially at peak times. If in doubt, ask your accommodation or a local where to stand and for costs.

From personal experience, we highly recommend not arriving into either of the above market bus terminals after dark.

To & From Leon

Leon is also a very convent first or last stop in Nicaragua for those doing a backpacking trip in Central America.

As well as multiple public buses linking you to other popular destinations in Nicaragua – Las Peñitas (1 hour), Granada (4 hours), San Juan del Sur (5 hours), and Ometepe – it’s a good place to start off /end a border crossing from El Salvador or Honduras.

We have travelled all of those routes, sometimes several times, and recommend trying to do your internal connections and El Salvador border runs by local bus.

You will however always find more expensive, quicker shuttle buses for all of them at various hostels and agencies in Leon – whilst we don’t think you should exclusively depend on these if you’re looking for a well-rounded travel experience, they definitely have a place for any 10+ hour journeys involving a border or two.

Your Next Stop

The Volcano Boarding Essentials

A Guide to Hiking Volcan Telica

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Nicaragua

23 Things to Know Before Visiting Nicaragua

– all to be published soon, bear with us! –

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