The Best Things To Do in San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala

Planning a stay or day trip in San Marcos on Lake Atitlán? This is the guide for you.

The reputation precedes San Marcos La Laguna, and is enough to make some travellers – particularly those less enamoured with barefoot dreadlocked hula-hoopers – steer well clear.

Its roots took place in the 60s and 70s, when counterculture and hippiedom were developing in the post-war generation. These movements intertwined with travellers, who were increasingly able to access and explore far-off lands, and establish disparate hippy communes, colonies, and outposts across Asia and Latin America.

Drawn in by the mystical lake and isolation, this little village on the west bank of Lake Atitlán became Guatemala’s hub for the curious or already converted to new-age spirituality, alternative medicine, and yoga: a place where they could find their voice and their tribe.

And those who had lived there forever must have found it all quite bemusing.

From those beginnings, San Marcos’s development mirrored that of the wellness movement itself: the counterculture went mainstream. What started as a refuge for free spirits and alternative thinkers slowly transformed into a hub for week-long spiritual retreats, wellness tourism, and workshops that sound a lot like a group w*nk session.

Whilst, San Marcos remains the place in Guatemala that those in search of something flock toward, and participate things like sound baths, cacao ceremonies, crystal realignments, ecstatic dance parties, and ‘conscious intimacy’ workshops, the hippies are just as likely to be rubbing shoulders with travellers staying in high-end retreats and hotels scattered in the hills or studying at an exclusive yoga & meditation centre by the lake.

And those who have lived here forever must still find it all quite bemusing.

Now, as two Brits, this is the point where it would be easy for us to take the piss – but that would be narrow-minded and unfair. We’re both hardwired to be sceptical, and have been to too many places and watched too many documentaries to know that certain purveyors of all that sounds good can often just be doing it to manipulate someone monetarily or sexually.

The barefoot hippy and new-age crowd en masse can also be utterly insufferable, with much bullshit spouted and many men trying to take advantage of those in search of something.

That doesn’t mean there is no merit or value to some of this stuff – some people really do get something positive out of it. And for those travelling for a certain purpose or passion, San Marcos is the only place and community you’ll likely want to stay in on the lake.

That doesn’t mean everyone will enjoy the vibe though.

Even for the most misanthropic cynic though, or the type of person who steadfastly will keep their shoes on at all times, the experience of Cerro Tzankumibal is reason enough to make a day trip to San Marcos part of your Lake Atitlán unmissables.

In our travel guide to San Marcos La Laguna, we’ve shared (mostly) everything you need to know to plan your stay or day trip. From an overview of the retreats and workshops you can join (or avoid), the best things to do in and around town, transport connections, our favourite places to eat, and a curated selection of the best accommodation whatever your budget or travel style, we’ve got you covered.

How To Get To San Marcos La Laguna

Transportation around Lake Atitlan is by boat, rather than road.

There is no direct bus or shuttle to San Marcos, which means you first need to travel to the gateway towns of Panajachel or San Pedro, then take one of the regular connecting boats.

You can book shuttles in person at most hostels and travel agencies, or find schedules and easily book tickets online in advance here. For more detail on all of the routes, plus the public transport alternatives, check out our main guide on How To Get To Lake Atitlan

The boats are an affordable, scenic, and (largely) enjoyable way to move between the various towns and villages, and there are regular shared services connecting San Marcos to the other Lake Atitlán villages.

If you’re ever stuck or in a rush, it’s also possible to commandeer a private boat service.

The key prices and times are:

· From Panajachel – 25 mins – 25Q per person

· From San Juan – 7 mins – 15/20Q

· From San Pedro – 10 mins – 15/20Q

The route and stops will usually be Panajachel – Santa Cruz – Jaibalito – Tzunuma – San Marcos – San Juan – San Pedro, and you’ll arrive at the rickety wooden main dock (Google Maps)

It’s first-come-first-served for seats, cash only, and paid on board; note that locals pay less than visitors.

For onward journeys, just turn up at the dock and there’ll be a boat every 20-30 minutes going in both directions.

Plan / We’ve shared much more advice on routes, prices, scams, and tips for smoother journeys in ‘How To Get Around Lake Atitlan’ – and we highly recommend giving it a read before you arrive.

Things To Do In San Marcos La Laguna

La Reserva Natural Cerro Tzankujil

The highlight of any visit or day trip to San Marcos, and the closest feeling you’ll get to an Italian summer on a lake in Guatemala, we adored our days on Cerro Tzankujil.

It’s a small, sacred nature reserve on the western side of town and, we’d go so far to say that if you there’s almost no point coming to San Marcos on a day trip unless you’re factoring in a couple of hours here.

Tzankujil is a place with mystical and ancestral importance for Mayans, and there are several altar points where ceremonies continue to take place; its protected designation became even more important as San Marcos’ tourism expanded along the shoreline.

It’s quite small, and there are several short, manageable nature trails amongst the tropical forest to viewpoints and the altars. However, it’s down by the rocks and the water where the magic happens.

One can sunbathe for hours on the rocks and natural platforms, swim in the shallow or deep, and find their bravery to jump from the 12-metre platform (misleadingly referred to as a ‘trampoline’).

It really is a great spot, blessed with wonderful views out over the water and volcanoes.

Where + When | The entrance to Cerro Tzankujil is at the end of the path, about 5-10 minutes walk from the main dock: find it here on Google Maps. From the entrance, you can bear left to go straight to the rocks and swimming / sunbathing area, or go right and up to access the nature trails, Mayan altars and viewpoints.

It’s open every day from 8am to 4pm, and you’ll have to leave when the guy tells you at about 4.10ish.

We suggest giving yourself two or three hours to make the most of it and, if you want a prime spot on a sunny day, arrive in the morning. For those of you visiting Lake Atitlan in the cooler, inclement weather, the experience of the reserve will unfortunately get downgraded quite a bit.

Cost | Entry is 20Q for foreigners (extranjeros), cash only.

We stayed at the gorgeous Lush Atitlan, which is the closest property to the reserve.

Bring | A towel, swimwear, some cash, suncream, sandals flip-flops. It’s not permitted to bring in alcohol, but books are highly recommended. Don’t leave your valuables unattended if swimming / diving.

Know | Whilst the trampoline and the rocky areas by the water are absolutely somewhere that locals and visitors all have fun, there are other areas of Cerro Tzankujil where you should be more reserved. We suggest that travellers do not wear swimwear or go shirtless on the trail, and make sure you’re wearing something over your swimsuit on the way to and from the town, and change once you’re down on the rocks.

Plan / If you’ve read that it’s not safe to go swimming, you’re confused about which town to stay in, or don’t know how many days you need, then make sure to read our Lake Atitlán Travel Guide for all the answers.

Eat At Konojel

Understandably, there are a bunch of internationally-focussed and health-conscious restaurants in San Marcos. You can find every sort of juice, smoothie, buddha bowl, kombucha brew, bliss ball, and plant-based alternative, and quality and thought at several places is excellent.

We’ve shared more recommendations at the end of the post, but Konojel is one that everybody should have on their list.

It’s a non-profit social enterprise restaurant that gives women of San Marcos the opportunity to have a ‘stable and dignified job, through employability, training, and social inclusion‘. The menu focuses on homemade Guatemalan and Mayan dishes, and there’s a different ‘plate of the day’ option that always includes vegan-friendly traditional dish – like pulque or subanik.

Everything’s 100% organic and freshly-prepared, profits go toward social programmes, and if you can get a seat at the whole in the wall bench, you can watch the world go by whilst you eat.

Where + When | It’s found on the narrow main street (maps), where the majority of San Marcos’ cafes, stalls, and shops are situated, and is open every day from 8am-8pm. Note that it may take a bit longer when busy to get your food.

We’ve shared more of our favourites for food and coffee at the end of the post.

Know | Whilst the local Kaqchiquel community of San Marcos will undoubtedly have benefitted in several ways from tourism, the reality is that around 50% still live in poverty. You can find out more about the work of Konjel on their website.

Find Your Tribe | Retreats, Cacao Ceremonies & Workshops

You’ll see flyers and QR codes all over town advertising all manner of alternative workshops, holistic therapies, classes, and retreats.

Some are daily drop-ins, others are one-time only, and a few require a full-on commitment for weeks or months.

It’s quite an eye-opener for the uninitiated, and often requires several google searches to understand exactly what’s being offered: beyond massages, yoga, and meditation, there’s sex prayers and conscious intimacy, ritual dance to activate your ‘divine sensual channel’, dark room retreats, breath work, crystal readings, ecstatic dance parties, moon celebrations, and a number of activities where a yoni egg is involved.

For curious first-timers though, a cacao ceremony in San Marcos is likely to be highest on the agenda. It’s a Mayan spiritual ritual where a group drink cacao whilst engaging in meditation, music, and manifestation. It’s quite a widespread practice these days amongst the global wellness set, but its roots and importance are very authentic in Guatemala (though ceremonies here are mostly attended by visitors).

We’ve shared a few businesses below to help you get started on your journey:

Las Pirámides | Established in 1991, this centre offers daily classes and month-long courses

Magic Beans House | A hidden away Mayan Traditions Centre where Carlos performs fire ceremonies and nahual readings, whilst Elean performs Mayan abdominal massage for women in a Temazcal

LavaLove Cacao | Runs several cacao and fire ceremonies per week for 200Q per person

The Crystal Playroom | Offers crystal readings and therapies

Casa Floresta | Holds regular events, retreats, and courses, with forest path ceremonies, chanting concerts, sound ceremonies and sacred sweats

Holistic Cottage | Massages by Katherine – just sign up on the noticeboard and show up on time. Massage courses also offered.

Kawoq Forest | An ‘eco-luxury wellness sanctuary’, it offers yoga workshops, private retreats, and various sorts of holistic activities

Del Lago Yoga Platform | Part of ATI Hostel, they offer several drop-in daily yoga classes from 7.30am. It’s 50Q per class unless specified.

Eagle’s Nest | They do a bit of everything wellness + spirituality wise, but are most known for their daily yoga classes and events, and the platform overlooking the lake is a difference-maker.

Hotel La Paz | Hosts various daily workshops and yoga classes, from ‘men circle’ to mystical song journeys and rebirthing breathwork. See schedules and prices on their noticeboard outside.

The above is non-exhaustive, and you’ll find many more options and therapies advertised on the noticeboards on the main street and side streets, as well as one-off events.

Take A Walk To Tzununa

Whilst there is beauty to San Marcos, some are understandably taken aback by the bricks and concrete, the cobbles and drainpipes, and the busy, enclosed main street.

It can all be quite jarring, especially when lake views are more often than not obstructed on the shore due to ongoing construction filling up the open spaces either side of the pier.

That’s one of the reasons why, for vibes and enjoyment, choosing the right accommodation is really important if you’re basing yourself there for a few days or longer.

It’s also one of the reasons why, as San Marcos has grown in popularity and become more densely concentrated, the neighbouring village of Tzununa has become an overflow, extension, or alternative (take your pick!).

Greener, quieter, emptier and more spread out, for those based in San Marcos its lesser-known retreat from the retreat. However, it also has its fair share of retreats and studios, as well as an ecstatic dance event every Sunday.

Tzununa is accessible via a pleasant 30-minute walk or 5-minute boat ride dock-to-dock for 10Q, and few places to stop by or check out are:

Los Trece Cielos | A beautiful, colourful space, and almost enough reason on its for doing the walk to over Tzununa! Downstairs has a small shop, and upstairs is the colourful restaurant and cafe serving up lots a fresh, healthy food. Plus, there’s cats! Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Granja Tz’ikin | Farm-to-table restaurant that’s part of a working farm, with an emphasis on organic, locally sourced, and seasonal ingredients.

Atitlan Organics | A permaculture farm and education centre for homesteaders, they offer a variety of courses on both, but you can also get in touch with them to arrange a short tour visit.

The dog charity Perros Libres is also based there, and they’re doing great work around the lake for the pooches that need it. They also accept volunteers, even those who can only spare a day to drop-in, so definitely bear that in mind if you’re staying in San Marcos for a while.

If Tzununa sounds more appealing for your travel style, then consider staying at The Seed Habitat and Maya Moon Lodge.

Know / We’ve mentioned in our main travel guide to Lake Atitlán, that one really should not expect beaches. On the walk from San Marcos, you’ll pass Playa Punta Tzancuil on the outskirts – some people go there to swim and sunbathe, but what we saw meant it’s hard to recommend it as something worth going out your way for. The same goes for the slightly better beach in neighbouring San Pablo, where the locals charge 5Q to enter (partially,

Lake Atitlán Day Trips

From your base in San Marcos, you’re easily able to get out and the other towns of Lake Atitlán.

The boats toward Panajachel and San Pedro pass the main dock (maps) every 20-30 minutes, so it’s straightforward to do everything independently, and from there you’re easily able to do a cooking class in San Pedro, free diving in Santa Cruz, learn about weaving in San Juan or go off-the-beaten track in Santa Catarina Palopo.

For more inspiration and ideas, make sure to check out our guide on The Best Things To Do in Lake Atitlan (published soon).

Take In The Sunset

The sunsets here are magical, especially when viewed near the shoreline.

We think sundown is best accompanied by a strong cocktail going down, so the place we suggest going to first is Vida | Cocina Creativa. Their drinks are very very decent, whilst the views offered out across the water on to the San Pedro and Toliman volcanoes are amongst the best available on the lake. This place is popular for food, whilst there’s live music nights too.

If your budget is tighter or you’d prefer not to be in the bar, then you can just take a walk down to the nearby dock to enjoy pretty much the same sunset view.

You can find Vida here on Google Maps

Plan / From San Marcos, you’re also well-positioned to head up to Indian Nose for the most spectacular sunset – but we only currently recommend doing that with a guided tour due to the ongoing instances of robberies on a section of the trail – this one is highly-rated

Where To Stay in San Marcos, Lake Atitlan

Some of the most stunning accommodations on Lake Atitlán are found in San Marcos, but there’s also hostels and guesthouses for every budget and style.

We’ve done the hard work and curated them below for you, but there are two main things to consider when making your own choice:

· some accommodations double up as retreats or holistic centres, and the majority of guests will be participating in them, so it’s important to be aware if you do or don’t wish that atmosphere to be dictated by it.

· only a handful of properties are on the lakefront, but some of the most popular are set back and up in the hills / valley where the setting is more serene.

Guesthouses & Hotels in San Marcos

Lush Atitlan | We blew the budget and treated ourselves to a few nights here. After walking for three days from Xela, surely we’d earned it? Some of their rooms are pure Instagram fodder, but the setting and location is what puts it over and we were very happy with our choice. Super chilled setting amongst nature – but only a couple of minutes from the lake – it also has an onsite plant-based restaurant (pricey but excellent) and most rooms come with a kitchenette.

Kula Maya | By far the fanciest place in town (that’s very much adults-only), this boutique hotel and spa has an incredible location on the water – which is easily accessible form the gorgeous grounds and pool area – plus luxurious rooms with killer views and handcrafted furniture and decor. We would recommend avoiding the glamping tents however as they get super hot and stuffy, and at the price point of this hotel, you very much deserve to be comfortable.

Also available to book on Airbnb.

Eagle’s Retreat | Located at the top of a steep hill, with the most wonderful views over the lake, this is by far most popular yogi spot in San Marcos, and perhaps in Lake Atitlan – but it’s also a great choice for anyone who really wants to deep dive into the wellness lifestyle for a few days. It features a mix of private cabins, dorms, and eco-conscious facilities, and included in your stay are two daily yoga classes on a platform overlooking the lake. The property also offers vegetarian meals, a temazcal sauna, and evening activities like movie nights and cacao ceremonies.

Posada del Bosque Encantado | This eco-conscious guest house in the centre of the village offers a retreat-like setting without any of the pretension. Set amongst peaceful gardens, the rooms and communal areas are simple but comfortable (with a treehouse meets Guatemala vibe) and there’s an on-site restaurant and temazcal. It seems to be aimed at writers, artists and musicians, so bear this in mind if that ain’t your vibe! See all listings on host’s profile page.

Venga Guesthouse | From private rooms to a lakefront house, a charming cabin, and even a treehouse, Venga has something for every type of traveller. The rooms in the guesthouse are simple but comfortable, the cabin – tucked away amongst the greenery – is perfect for those seeking a more private experience, while the lake house provides ample space for groups or families. For something a bit more unique, the treehouse offers a cosy, elevated retreat with incredible views of the surrounding nature. They also have their own bouldering wall (!), paddle boarding lessons, a sauna and a cold plunge pool.

Hostels

ATI Hostel | Formerly known as Hostel del Lago, this popular hostel on the shores of Lake Atitlán has recently undergone a revamp. Offering a variety of rooms (from dorms to an abundance of decent privates), they cater to both solo travellers, couples and groups and a big selling point is the lakefront terrace replete with parasols and bar. Also offer a free breakfast.

Casa AHAU | Set up in the hills of San Marcos (but only a couple of minutes from all the action), this hostel-cum-guesthouse offers a peaceful escape with a small price tag. It’s perfect for those that favour calm over a lakeside location. Guests speak very highly of the owner, the free breakfast and the lovely terrace. They have dorms (with single beds) and pleasant doubles. There’s also a guest kitchen.

Airbnbs & Apartments

Baraka Atitlan | Set within a peaceful bay – just a short walk from the centre of San Marcos – Baraka is the ideal option for those who prefer their own space over a hotel. The apartments are stylishly furnished, with warm colours and natural materials, and each unit has a private terrace with breathtaking lake and volcano views, plus a fully-equipped kitchen. Also benefits from a private beach / pontoon area, perfect for lounging, early morning yoga or heading out with a kayak.

Guesthouse at Sacha | This cosy two-storey property has been crafted with a blend of natural materials – stone, bamboo, wood, and earthen walls – offering a peaceful and private retreat filled with light. Just a short walk from the centre of San Marcos via a quiet footpath, the house features a spacious patio surrounded by lush gardens, a fully-equipped kitchen and a loft space upstairs ideal for remote work.

Villa Cerca del Cielo | An elegant two-storey villa perched atop Tzan Kujil hill in the heart of San Marcos’ nature reserve, that expertly blends contemporary Guatemalan style with bohemian charm. It’s a luxurious space that would be our main pick if you’re splurging and don’t want a hotel! In addition to outstanding views of Lake Atitlán, the villa features two master bedrooms, an outdoor marble jacuzzi, and round-the-clock support, making it an excellent choice for travellers seeking privacy, style, and a truly unique lakeside retreat.

The same host has a number of other excellent properties including this little cabin perfect for a couple and this outrageously beautiful luxury loft.

A-Frame Moderna | This stunning A-frame retreat, completed in June 2023, seamlessly integrates modern design with natural surroundings. Crafted from teak wood and metal, it offers panoramic volcano views, a private deck with a suspended hammock, and an organic garden where guests can pick fresh produce. Inside, you’ll find eco-friendly luxuries like solar-powered hot water, filtered spring water, a fully equipped kitchen and high-speed Starlink WiFi. It’s also super close to Eagle’s Nest to enjoy daily yoga. See all three properties here.

Casa Kuk | This is possibly so affordable (around $40USD a night) because it’s relatively new, but this little one-bed apartment in the centre of San Marcos is ideal for a solo traveller or couple.

Casa Karin | This charming little two-bed property is simply decorated but with thoughtful additions for extra cosiness. It’s got a decent kitchen making it ideal for longer stays, plus a wonderful terrace with vies out over the lake. Guests speak really highly of the host (and her cat, Mia).

Built in 2018, the two-bedroom Casa Tula is a good option if you’d prefer more of a traditional house set-up (specifically if you’re travelling with kids and want a little more space).

There are quite a few properties up in the hills of San Marcos that require quite a fairly strenuous walk to reach (and not always possible with a tuk tuk). If this doesn’t worry you, we’d recommend taking a look at Casa Reverencia, Casa Antonio, Satori, the truly stunning Eco Mountain Villa or El Nido.

Whilst you can rent out their lovely little casitas and stunning four-bedroom house individually, if you’re looking to host a retreat in San Marcos, consider Casa Paloma which has wonderful grounds and facilities and specialises in hosting groups.

Where To Eat, Drink & Shop

As should hopefully be clear by now, if in doubt for eating out in San Marcos, then it’s the narrow main street where you’ll find most options – just note that wait times can be long in the evenings in high season – but there are several excellent options that are more tucked away.

The main street is also the place to go to find a few small fruit and veg stalls (hours can be unpredictable), as well as places selling homemade bliss balls and that sort of thing, but you can find more options to the right of the Parque Municipal.

A few of our favourites, and some that we really liked the look of:

Lush | Their restaurant is open to everyone though and, if you’re staying elsewhere, we highly recommend making the effort to go have breakfast or lunch there. It’s a bit on the expensive side, but the gorgeous verdant setting, and the quality of the modern takes on the traditional, as well as more American and European influenced options, make it one to savour slowly (not sponsored!)

Circles Cafe & Bakery | The best coffee and – unless someone’s turned the oven up a bit too high – delicious croissants, pastries, and cakes. On the main street, the set-up is very modern, and it’s a great space for any digital nomads.

If you’re looking to do laundry, we can recommend the lady in the house opposite.

Plaza Aguacate | Go left after the main dock and you’ll find this space with several small businesses within, including Café Clavandier and fresh baguettes

Comedor Casa Juanita | A little out of the way, but for good local food, this is the place to go – if you can nab a place on the rooftop, then you’re set!

Tercer Ojo | A popular ‘spritual bakery’ and cafe/restaurant on the main street. We only had coffee and croissants, so can’t comment on the lunches and dinners.

The Emporium Plaza | An interesting multi-use place on the main street, with a few restaurants, artisan stalls, and workshops going on under one roof. We recommend Dragon Moon for sushi in the evenings, but Cafe Ixchel upstairs is good hangout spot with veggie/vegan food. Check the noticeboard out front for what’s going on that week, including the Saturday ‘market day’.

La Sagrada | A cool little bar for mezcal cocktails and music.

Nectar | Tucked away in the backstreets, it’s a popular hangout for the long-termers. We’re including it here for the shop though, which has a bunch of cool items, zero-waste, and many ingredients and products you simply won’t find elsewhere on Lake Atitlán – if you are staying here for a while, it’s definitely somewhere to make a note of.

AllAla | We didn’t have time to make it to this Japanese restaurant, but we heard and read such good things that it has to go in here.

The Hidden Garden | A little lush oasis far from the main drag with lots of veggie and vegan options. It’s only open from 8am-2pm, so a great shout for a slow morning breakfast or brunch.

Unfortunately, we really can’t recommend Babaji de Indian Express. It’s does Indian food and has a great location on the dock, so was a dead cert on our first night, but the service was atrocious and food disappointing (but we have really high standards on Indian food).

A Few More Useful Things To Know

· There is now an ATM in San Marcos (maps). As with all others in Guatemala, it charges a withdrawal fee (49Q) and you shouldn’t accept the conversion rate offered. It’s not reliable enough to always work or be full though, so we suggest arriving with enough quetzales to last a few days.

· More and more places now accept payment by card too.

· There are shuttles to Chichistenango market on Sundays and Thursdays at 7.30am for those who want to do it as a day trip.

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