Santa Catarina Palopó | A Short Travel Guide

Planning a day trip or stay in Santa Catarina Palopó, one of the Lake Atitlan villages?

Our essentials guide has got you covered!

Santa Catarina Palopó, the small Kaqchikel Maya town just south of Panajachel, is a place of remarkable natural beauty and cultural wealth, yet its story has long been shaped by economic struggle.

Despite being located in one of Guatemala’s most visited departments, for years Santa Catarina was largely overlooked by visitors to Lake Atitlán, the tourist-driven allure of nearby towns like San Pedro and San Marcos instead pulling travellers west (a problem no doubt made worse by the fact that it’s still not on the main boat route). Whilst this ensured the indigenous Kaqchikel did not have to confront the negative impacts of a tourism boom, it also meant missing out on growing economic opportunities and benefits available to other communities around the lake.

And so, for generations residents here relied solely on the traditional livelihoods of textile weaving, fishing, and subsistence farming; trades and practices that are valuable and important to their culture but which often fell short of providing stable incomes or meeting the growing needs of the community.

Faced with these challenges, the town turned to its most enduring resource: creativity.

In 2016, Asociación Pintando el Cambio, a local non-profit spearheaded by Melissa Whitebeck and her uncle Harris Whitebeck (wealthy Guatemalans with connections to the lake), embarked on an ambitious project to reimagine Santa Catarina as not only a place to visit, but a living canvas. Their vision was to transform the town into an open-air gallery, where every building would tell a story, drawing inspiration from the traditions, symbols, and natural beauty of the Maya culture.

It was a bold move, inspired in part by Brazil’s famous painted favelas, but with a uniquely Guatemalan twist.

To ensure sensitivity and inclusion of the local community, the Whitebeck family partnered with the Dutch artists Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn – famous for their work in Brazil’s favelas – to study the Mayan Kaqchikel culture and project their traditional designs outside of their woven fabrics (the huipil, the traditional Maya blouse, becoming the literal blueprint for the murals).

Blue, in all its shades, dominated – a homage to the lake and shade the local women wear – while motifs of maize, quetzals, and volcanoes paid tribute to the culture and landscape that have defined the lives of the people here for centuries.

Now, it might sound as though all of this was an external cultural imposition on the local indigenous population, who may have been quite content with how things looked and how things were.

But far from being passive participants, those who live here became co-creators, selecting designs for their homes and working shoulder to shoulder with professional artists. This wasn’t just art for art’s sake; it was an act of reclamation, a collective statement of pride and resilience for the indigenous Kaqchikel community.

850 houses later, and the impact of Pintando Santa Catarina has been nothing short of transformative.

Tourism surged, with people drawn not just to the murals but also to the story behind the artistic reinvention. This introduction of visitors has stabilised or boosted the incomes of local artisans and businesses, while some improvements to infrastructure – such as better water systems, schools and communal spaces – have followed.

In an age of overtourism and identity crises, it is genuinely refreshing to see where the green shoots are not just welcomed, but viewed as having a net positive impact.

Indeed, the story of Pintando Santa Catarina has resonated far beyond the shores of Lake Atitlán, and the project garnered significant international attention, notably being showcased at the 2018 London Design Biennale. It was praised for its innovative blend of traditional culture and modern creativity, demonstrating how art can be a powerful tool to tackle social and economic challenges.

This recognition has helped to raise the profile of Santa Catarina, positioning it as a model for other communities looking to use creativity for positive change​.

And that, dear reader, is possibly the main reason you’re even reading this.

Drawn in by the bright brushstrokes and wanting to go somewhere that most others weren’t, we jumped into the back of a pick-up truck to spend a pleasant day in Santa Catarina.

In this short guide to the town they painted blue, we’ve shared a few tips and suggestions for your own visit, as well how to get there.

Whilst tourism is definitely on the up in Santa Catarina Palopó, if you’re interested in staying in town, it’s important to know that accommodation options are still somewhat limited for the regular traveller – with no hostels, no posadas, no hospedajes – but there’s a surprising concentration of some of the fanciest places to stay on the lake, especially on the road out of town towards San Antonio Palopó.

We’ve shared the pick of those at the end of the post.

How to Get to Santa Catarina Palopó

To reach Santa Catarina, you need to first make your way by boat from your base in Lake Atitlán to Panajachel.

You can find further details on this in our guide to getting around Lake Atitlán.

Camioneta | The most popular and affordable way to reach Santa Catarina Palopó is by taking a camioneta (pickup truck), a common form of local transportation. The trucks depart from outside Iglesia de San Francisco, here on Google Maps. The fare is typically around 10-15Qper person for the 20-minute journey, and you’ll pay the driver upon exiting the vehicle. Be aware that the pickup trucks are an informal form of transport, so be prepared for a slightly cramped ride, especially if you’re traveling during peak hours.

The trucks are regular enough, and you’ll usually find others waiting for one outside the church. If it’s full or you want a fun ride, you can stand on the back and hold on, and we recommend travellers give priority any older local who need a space or place.

Tuk-Tuk | You can also grab a tuk-tuk from anywhere in Panajachel to take you directly to Santa Catarina Palopó. The journey costs around 30-40Q and it takes roughly 15 minutes, depending on traffic. You can easily find tuk-tuks around the town centre or near the dock area, and should be prepared to negotiate.

Both options will drop you off in Santa Catrina’s main square, which is where you can also grab a lift back.

There is a dock too, but as far as we’re away, you’d need to commission a private boat to take you there (if you ever do, let us know the prices in the comments and we’ll update the post).

Things to do in Santa Catarina Palopó

In all honesty, for the moment, one doesn’t really come here to necessarily do lots of defined activities or see anything in particular.

It’s more about wandering the streets, admiring the painted houses, sitting with a coffee and a view, eating something different, chatting to a few locals, engaging with the detail, and watching daily life unfold somewhere far from home.

That’s the appeal too really.

We spent about five hours in town during an overcast day, but most will probably only need to set aside three or so if you’re not having lunch.

Café TUK / If you’ve read the rest of our Guatemala guides, then we’ve probably already bored you senseless about how fantastic the coffee and coffee culture is in the country, so we won’t repeat that here!

However, this sweet and simple little coffeehouse in the square is a welcome part of it. The coffee is as local as it gets, grown in the valley surrounding the town, and TUK is sort of at the forefront of developing a market for it. So, whilst you’ll be able to source a flat white or V60 elsewhere, this is the ideal reminder of how the journey toward coffee culture starts in place. The view from the deck is also blissful, and ideal to watch the world go by and all the activity in and around the church.

Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó / To the left of the church, you’ll find the offices and showroom for the project that painted the town red blue. This is the place to stop by and learn more about the project’s origins and works, as well as the social and economic challenges it’s helped the town overcome.

The Centro Cultural / Tucked away on narrow street that feels like you’re going the wrong way, the Cultural Centre is an essential stop for any day-tripper.

Spread over several levels, it’s quite dark, dusty, and a little tired inside, with a few cats lurking in the shadows, but the atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and the ladies working there very sweet.

It tells story of the town and its surrounding area, but the most lasting impression for us was how it conveyed the thought, patterns, hierarchy, detail, and detailed symbolism of the traditional male and female clothing – and added a whole new layer of appreciation. So much so in fact, that we suggest you go here first, as the vibrant murals will then take on greater meaning and depth.

Most explanations include English translations, whilst you may be offered the option of a short tour around the displays. It’s free to visit, but there is a donations / support box.

On the open-sided top floor, there’s also a cafe / restaurant, and we ended up having lunch there on our lonesome. It’s got a privileged view of the blue town snaking up the hills, but prices were surprisingly high for what’s on offer, so it may be better to head up for a drink and eat elsewhere.

The nearby family-run Casa Museo restaurant offers a similar terrace view and set-up – it’s easier to spot from the square than it is to actually find it in the warren of backstreets though!

Mirador De Santa Catarina / As we mention in 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Lake Atitlán, it’s not uncommon for the weather to shift in the afternoons. Unfortunately, this meant our view from this observation deck was basically just cloud and more cloud, so we can’t actually let you know if the walk along the road was actually worth it! But, from photos we’ve seen elsewhere, it most likely is. Find it here on Google Maps.

Lunch On The Water / A young girl handed us a menu for one of the two restaurants down by the waterfront and muelle (dock), so we headed there after lunch to take a look. They’re both very traditional with a typical Guatemalan menu, and probably a better pick for some than the top floor of the Cultural Centre (the prices are more in line too).

Restaurante Laguna Azul is where we’d go first if the weather’s favourable, purely because it offers a lake view from the outdoor tables.

Note that there are Aguas Termales Natural (natural thermal pools) and an area called Playa Santa Catarina, but we don’t think they’re really worth getting too excited about, so you can confidently leave your dookers at home.

Shopping / Whilst San Juan is primarily known for its excellent array of weaving co-operatives – and is therefore a great place to purchase textiles or a good quality souvenir – it is now very popular as a base and with day trippers. We appreciate that can sometimes impact the experience and, whilst Santa Catarina is absolutely not as conveniently tourist-facing, the impact of spend likely goes deeper and further. With other gringos and Guatemalan tourists around, it’s also easier to actually browse and have a conversation (if you speak Spanish).

On the street down to the water, there are a few stalls and shops, with purchases at Quetzal Co-op going toward a local school.

Hikes, Workshops & More / As tourism develops – hopefully in a slow, meaningful, and sustainable way – it’s likely that more hiking routes, companies, activities will establish themselves in Santa Catarina. As and when that happens, feel free to share with us in the comments to help out other travellers like you!

WHERE TO STAY IN Santa Catarina Palopó

Whilst tourism is definitely on the up in Santa Catarina Palopó, accommodations are still somewhat limited. There are no hostels, no posadas, no hospedajes – just a surprisingly large number of luxury accommodations, especially on the road out of the village and towards San Antonio Palopó.

The luxurious Hotel Casa Palopo – a Relais & Châteaux property – is the most well-known hotel here. Undeniably beautiful, it seamlessly blends Guatemalan artistry with modern comforts across its communal spaces and uniquely designed rooms. The pool area is particularly wonderful. It’s important to note that this hotel is objectively expensive, and having looked at a lot of accommodations across the country, we are left wondering if this place is worth its lofty price tag (especially as previous guests have quite negative things to say about the restaurant).

Eco Cabañas | A collection of six purpose-built wooden cabins set within gardens and located near the boat pier with an on-site pool. Most are simple one-bedrooms but they also have a two bedroom and a three bedroom property which would suit families perfectly.

Casa Terracota | This huge adobe house with mezzanine bedroom, overlooking the lake is simply stunning, and would make a wonderful escape for a couple. Filled with light from the huge windows, the decor is rustic but modern and it benefits from a huge terrace from which to enjoy the incredible view.

The equally lovely Quaint Bella Vista Cabin is a fantastic alternative if the above isn’t available.

Casa Verapaz | We can’t help but feel that the super modern nature of this two-bedroom property is a little out of keeping with its environment, but there’s no denying it’s a beautiful property. Luxurious extras have been considered (like a free-standing bath in the master suite) and it even has a pool!

The two-bedroom Villa Jade is a beautiful property, but you’ll need a car to reach it.

If you’re looking for a peaceful property that can host a large family or group of friends, take a look at the stunning Casa Colibrí, which has five bedrooms.

Where to Next?

We are right in the middle of publishing all the guides to help you travel better by the lake, so keep an eye out or visit our Guatemala page for the latest posts.

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Lake Atitlan

Our Lake Atitlan Travel Guide

Where to Stay in Lake Atitlan

Short Guides / San Pedro – San Marcos – San Juan

Santiago – Santa Cruz

How to Get Around Lake Atitlan By Boat

How to Get to Lake Atitlan

Plan For Guatemala With Our Guides