Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Exploring The City Like a Local

Chiang Mai is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Asia for a reason: it blends nature, temples, and modern metropolitan culture in a way you won’t find anywhere else. Because its tourist infrastructure is so well-developed, though, it can be hard for visitors who want a more authentic view of the city to find the experience they seek.

I’ve spent a total of more than six months of my life in Chiang Mai over a dozen or so trips. I also have many friends who live there permanently. Do you know Chiang Mai is the most popular city in Asia for long-stay digital nomads?

Using the local knowledge I’ve gathered firsthand or heard about from my friends who live there, I’ve put together this Chiang Mai city guide that will help adventurous travelers unlock cultural experiences and insider information that most travelers will not have access to.

What is Chiang Mai Known For?

Fun Fact: Chiang Mai was the favorite city of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who ruled Thailand until his passing in 2016. It’s no wonder why, either; Chiang Mai is a very special city, starkly different from most urban centers in Thailand in several key ways.

Quaint Culture

The first time I visited Chiang Mai, I thought it was a small village. I knew it was popular with tourists, but I would have guessed the population was around 20,000 based on the fact that the streets never felt crowded, there was very little noise and light pollution, and the center of town contained no highrises or other large structures typical of cities.

That’s why I was shocked when I found out that Chiang Mai is the third biggest city in Thailand, with around 175,000 people. Many visitors feel that same sense of quaintness when they visit Chiang Mai.

Although it is not confirmed, many locals speculate that it is due to the old king’s affinity for the town. Because he loved Chiang Mai so much, he made sure the local government enacted a policy that kept it feeling like the small town that enchanted him in the first place. For instance, the city bus system is extremely limited, and tall buildings are outlawed in the city center.

Temperate Weather

Like Dalat City in nearby Vietnam, Chiang Mai possesses a temperate micro-climate that very much contrasts most of the country it’s located in. The surprisingly cool temperature is due to:

• A high elevation.
• A location further north of the equator than the rest of Thailand.
• Natural barriers like the Thanon Thong Chai Mountains and Doi Suthep-Pui National Park block hot air and channel cool air.
• Being far from the coast, creating a less humid environment.

Modern Spirituality

Thailand is a Buddhist country and it’s very noticeable in some areas. Usually, it’s hard to detect in the larger urban centers, though, and that’s not the case in Chiang Mai.

That being said, Chiang Mai combines a healthy dose of modern (some might say “hipster”) spirituality with more traditional Thai Buddhism. Yoga studios, tarot card readers, and holistic therapy centers are everywhere.

Global Nomads

Chiang Mai is the #1 city in Asia for global nomads (those who work remotely while traveling the world). Because of that, it has tons of nice cafes, gyms, foreign restaurants, short-stay apartments, and other facilities important to the nomadic lifestyle.

When to Visit Chiang Mai

As I noted above, Chiang Mai’s climate is extremely welcoming most of the year. That’s not to say it’s the same all year round, though.

Temperate Season (November to Mid-February)

This is probably the nicest time to visit Chiang Mai and definitely the most popular. That’s because the weather is almost always reasonably cool – often 80-85 F (27-30 C) in the heat of today and a brisk 50 F (10 C) at night. It can even get as cool as 37 F (3 C) in the mountains around the town, so you should definitely bring a warm jacket if you’re visiting during this season.

Temperate season is also by far the tourism peak season, though, especially during the Lantern Festivals in mid-November. This will result in busier streets and, at times, higher rates for tourist-oriented services.

My personal favorite time to visit is January, which has fantastic weather and sees the blooming of cherry blossom flowers to the Northwest of Chiang Mai.

Smoky Season (Late February to May)

Unfortunately, Chiang Mai undergoes its infamous smoky season (aka “Burning Season”) from late February through April. During this time, the town’s air quality degrades to downright dangerous levels, and the weather becomes unbearably hot and sticky.

There are a few reasons for the extraordinarily bad air quality during Chiang Mai’s smoky season, including:

• Local farmers burning harvested fields to make space for the next planting season.
• Forest fires due to very hot weather, Chiang Mai’s particularly dry climate, and lots of farmland.
• The mountains and forests that surround Chiang Mai completely create a screen that keeps in smoke.

Rainy Season (June to October)

The rainy season in Thailand during June, July, August, and September tends to bring with it comfortable temperatures averaging 76-86 F (25-30 C). It also rains nearly every day during this season. Many tourists think of this as a deal-breaker in terms of trip planning, but I actually think the rainy season is a very underrated time to visit Chiang Mai for a few key reasons, including:

• It often only rains for an hour or two in the afternoon. You can tell when the rain is coming because the wind picks up and acquires a brisk chill for a few minutes before the rain starts. That’s your cue to duck into one of Chiang Mai’s many stylish cafes for a while and order a coffee or a Thai tea.
• Even if you are caught outside in the rain, the rain in a tropical climate like Thailand does not feel nearly as cold or chilly as it does in Western countries with dryer climates.
• After the rain, the rich farmland around Chiang Mai is at its greenest and most fertile.
• Also, after the rain, the air feels cleaner.
• The rainy season has significantly fewer tourists than the temperate season, so you’re less likely to encounter oppressive crowds, and some tourist attractions offer lower rates.

How Many Days Do I Need in Chiang Mai?

First-time visitors looking for a general overview of the rich history and culture in Chiang Mai’s Old City should stay a minimum of 3 days.

If you’re looking for a broader overview of what Chiang Mai is about as a city, a minimum 5-day stay is required.

If you’re looking to explore all of the ins and outs of Chiang Mai described in this guide, I’d recommend staying a minimum of 10 days.

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

The part of Chiang Mai you choose to stay in will greatly affect your experience there, so choose wisely. The town is small enough to where you can get around without much difficulty, but the vibe of the area you come back to at the end of the day can really make or break your trip. In my opinion, the distinct areas of Chiang Mai that you should consider are:

Old City (For First-Timers)

The area in the middle of Chiang Mai that is actually surrounded by walls and a moat falls right in the center of the city. It was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom from its founding in 1296 until 1558, which is why it is home to over 30 temples, in addition to the other amazing historical artifacts found near the walls. Walking or biking around the old city is a really cool step back in time.

More recently, the old city has gotten a lot of quirky, cozy cafes and restaurants that make it an excellent place to spend a chill afternoon. Many of the eateries and even some separate galleries house art and crafts made by locals. More than anywhere else I’ve traveled in Thailand, Chiang Mai’s Old City gives off an interesting “old meets new” vibe.

Santitham (For Authentic Urban Culture)

The area is just across the street from The Old City on the north side. This is my favorite area of Chiang Mai to stay in because of the authentic and slightly rough around-the-edges vibe that is the primary reason I love Southeast Asian cities, though I realized that gritty feel might not be everyone’s cup of tea. The locals here are also notably friendly, it’s even cheaper than most of Chiang Mai, and it has a few vibrant “wet markets” and “diamond in the rough” cafes (my personal favorite is Container Cafe).

Riverside (For Luxury Travelers and Families)

The area to the east of the Old City, hugging either side of the Ping River. I’ve never actually stayed here, but I’ve spent plenty of time walking around and eating at local cafes. The area is extremely spacious, peaceful, and luxurious. It’s a favorite spot for families traveling together or couples looking for a classically romantic place to rest their heads.

There’s also a lot to do in Riverside. If you choose to stay at one of the resorts that make up most of the accommodations in this area, just walking around the grounds will be an activity in itself. There’s also the Kalare Night Bazaar and the upscale Warorot Market there, and it’s only a 5-minute drive from The Old City.

Nimman (For The Trendy Urbanites)

Nimman, the neighborhood three minutes to the west of the Old City, is the most popular neighborhood in Asia for digital nomads. Much of the same appeal that makes it such a draw for long-term residents crosses over to tourists looking for a trendier Chiang Mai vacation, though. For instance, the area is known for:

• Countless slick cafes and restaurants with a modern flair.
• Lively nightlife (e.g., Infinity Club).
• Quiet side streets that are even more walkable than in most of Chiang Mai.
• The best shopping malls in Chiang Mai; like Maya and Nimman One.
• A generally laid-back, international vibe.
• Upscale cannabis dispensaries.

It’s definitely less traditional than some neighborhoods in Chiang Mai, but it’s a fun place to hang out and a good place to stay if you’re looking for a more modern experience. It also has a lot of quaint B&B-style accommodation.

Suthep (For Active Travelers)

Suthep is the area even further west than Nimman. It is home to Chiang Mai University, which gives it a youthful, bustling vibe. The younger locals give rise to a lot of activity-oriented businesses, my personal favorite being the board game nights at Game Tree that attract both foreigners and locals.

In terms of amenities like cafes, restaurants, and malls, Suthep is a bit like Nimman lite. It doesn’t have a strong hipster-ish vibe and has a bit more of a residential or collegiate field than the commercialism of Nimman. I prefer this vibe, although I realize some may feel differently.

Doi Saket (For Nature-Lovers)

This area is far East from The Old City – about a 40-minute drive. That’s the price you pay, though, for getting out into some of the most beautiful natural surroundings Northern Thailand has to offer. It has unspoiled rice patties, orchards, and patches of jungle that make you feel like you’re in an Indiana Jones film. In fact, the area is particularly famous for bird-watching, which means a lot of tranquil nature.

Doi Saket district of Chiang Mai is huge, but I would recommend staying somewhere near Mae Kue Market. That area definitely has its share of breathtaking nature if you drive a few blocks off the main road, but it’s also urban enough to keep your interest with coffee shops, farm-to-table cafes, and authentic Thai restaurants.

I should also mention that my friend Evelyn, a professional mycologist and amateur bird watcher, runs an Airbnb in the area.

How to Get Around Chiang Mai

One of my favorite things about visiting Chiang Mai is just how easy it is to get around town. The way the roads and thoroughfares around town are laid out is extremely intuitive and orderly, and that helps limit traffic, so there are never really any slowdowns.

The best ways to get around as a tourist in Chiang Mai are:

Bicycle

Chiang Mai is a fantastic bike town since it has a great mixture of rural backroads in quiet suburban streets. Also, like I said, there’s very little traffic in Chiang Mai, which is especially nice when you’re biking around.

Mobike

Mobike is one of those dockless bike-sharing companies that are becoming popular in lots of cities around the world nowadays. Basically, you download the app and use it to rent the bicycles you see in designated parking spots around town.

Rental Car

Since Chiang Mai is such a hotspot for Western tourists, lots of Western car rental companies like Hertz and Avis have offices there and they make it easy for foreign tourists to rent a car. You can also search DiscoverCars for deals in Chiang Mai from all available car rental providers.

Motorbike Rental

Driving a motorbike might be scary for the first few minutes, but it’s pretty much like riding a high-powered bicycle once you’re used to it. There are lots of motorbike rental agencies in Chiang Mai, and most of them only require an ID from your home country. Most hotels rent motorbikes as well.

Songthaew

Songthaews are the pickup truck-bus hybrids popular in most of urban Thailand outside of Bangkok. There is a quick and inexpensive way to get around as long as you’re in the Old City, but they don’t operate in other parts of Chiang Mai.

Tuk-Tuk

Tuk-Tuks are a Southeast Asian taxi alternative famous around the world. They’re fun to ride, but they’re a bit expensive and are also only available in the central part of the city.

Bolt

Bolt is basically the local version of Uber and is usually a bit cheaper. For instance, a trip from The Chiang Mai airport to the old city will probably cost you 100-150 THB ($3-4).

Grab

If Bolt is not available, grab is another local ride-hailing app that’s almost as cheap.

What to Do in Chiang Mai

My fellow Chiang Mai lover Claire Mykura already published a detailed guide on 21 things to do in Chiang Mai, so head over there for a lot of really cool ideas. Very briefly, though, I’d say some of the most popular activities for different flavors of travel experience are:

• If you seek nature, go to Elephant Nature Park, Sticky Waterfalls, Mae Sa Valley, and Queen Sirakit Botanic Garden.
• For a metropolitan experience, check out trendy cafes on Nimmanhaemin Rd, visit the MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum, and shop at the Chiang Mai night bazaar.
• For total relaxation, go to Oasis Spa or Fah Lanna, the natural hot springs at San Kamphaeng, or Wild Rose Yoga to join some classes.

Getting to Chiang Mai

Plane, train, and bus are the best ways to get to Chiang Mai. I’ve written a little bit about each one below, and at the bottom of this section, you’ll find a table with travel times from major cities to Chiang Mai via each of the methods described.

By plane (Quickest)

Chiang Mai is an immensely popular vacation spot for both domestic and foreign tourists, so every major airport in Thailand and even many major airports elsewhere in Southeast Asia have flights directly to there.

By Train (Most Scenic)

The train is a great way to become familiar with Thailand’s scenery. It takes you through some really stunning rural scenes, making for a fascinating and immersive trip to Chiang Mai on Thailand’s Northern Line. Make sure you take a train during the day so you can see the incredible landscape as it flies by your window.

There are two options for train tickets: standard routes and express routes. The express route is not much more expensive, and I definitely recommend the inexpensive upgrade. Not only does the train make fewer stops, but the cars on the express route are newer and have AC as well as optional upgrades to sleeper berths and first-class cabins.

By Bus (Most Affordable)

The bus is the best way for budget travelers to get to Chiang Mai because Thai buses are very inexpensive, and the roads in the country tend to be pretty good. Thailand’s inter-city buses are also spacious enough, although I’d recommend going for the train if you get claustrophobic easily.

To Chiang Mai, From…	Bangkok	Phuket	Singapore
By Plane (Direct)	1 hr, 10 mins (425mi/680km)	2 hrs (940mi/1500km)	3 hrs (1550mi/2500km)
By Train (Express)	11hr	N/A	N/A
By Bus	10hr	24hr	N/A

Where to Travel After Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is not the only spot in the area worth checking out. The mountainous terrain and numerous hill tribes in Northern Thailand give it a unique feel. Some of my top recommendations for places you can visit after Chiang Mai include:

• Pai if you’re looking for a more tranquil small-town setting. (Pai Travel Guide)
• Chiang Dao if you want to explore the cave system and do some jungle trekking while staying in civilization. (Chiang Dao Travel Guide)
• Soppong for a more rugged caving adventure. (Guide to Tham Lod Cave near Soppong)
• Doi Inthanon National Park to see Thailand’s luscious forests, climb the country’s highest peak, and have a real adventure out in nature.
• Chiang Rai if you’re headed for Laos since it’s on the way to the border. It also has some amazing temples.
• Sukhothai if you’re headed back to Bangkok. Those who love ruins or learning about ancient history will especially love it here.

Time From Chiang Mai to…	By Car/Bus
Pai	2 hrs, 45 mins (80mi/130km)
Chiang Dao	1 hr, 10 mins (44mi/70km)
Soppong	4 hrs, 15 mins (115mi/185km)
Doi Inthanon National Park	1 hr, 30 mins (55mi/89km)
Chiang Rai	3 hrs (120mi/193km)
Sukhothai	4 hrs, 30 mins (120mi/193km)