11 ways to get to know Granada, Spain

Cultured, creative Granada is a place with a storied past centering on the Alhambra, one of the world’s greatest architectural wonders.

To the Moors, it was a paradise on Earth; to the Reyes Católicos (Catholic Monarchs) who succeeded them, Granada became the seed from which a global empire grew.

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Today, the legacy of Granada’s historic diversity remains the key reason to visit. Neighborhoods of winding cobbled streets once home to Jewish (El Realejo), Roma (Sacromonte) and Muslim (the Albaicín) communities wait to be explored. There are also attractions for gourmets, history buffs, fans of street art and appreciators of all things musical and literary. In other words, there’s something here that appeals to everybody.

Whatever your interests, make the most of your trip with these top Granada experiences.

1. Take in architectural perfection at the Alhambra

Granada is best known for the astonishing Alhambra, a majestic hilltop stronghold consisting of ornately decorated palaces (Palacios Nazaríes), robust fortifications (the Alcazaba) and graceful gardens (the Generalife). As you wander through the lavishly stuccoed rooms of the palace and courtyards anchored by burbling marble fountains, it’s easy to imagine the emirs reclining in the shade, savoring life’s finer things. That was the underlying philosophy behind such exquisite buildings: that life is transitory and best appreciated in the present. You’ll feel it the minute you enter.

Planning tip: Entry to the Nasrid Palaces is by timed ticket; we recommend booking well in advance given the site’s popularity, and picking a morning slot to beat the heat and the crowds.

2. Visit interred royals at the Capilla Real

Although nothing that the conquering Reyes Católicos built after their 1492 conquest of the city rivals the Alhambra, the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) comes closest. While the Moorish palace was built to celebrate life, this ornate post-Reconquista building is a place of final rest. Within the Gothic chapel, which adjoins Granada Cathedral, the ornate marble tombs of the revered monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella lie behind a protective wrought-iron barrier. Most of the royal remains are boxed up in lead coffins in the crypt below.

3. Discover contemporary street art in medieval alleys

Medieval Granada is the hometown of one of Europe’s most renowned street artists: Raúl Ruiz, better known as El Niño de las Pinturas, who continues to reside and create in the city. Working proudly in the guerrilla tradition of graffiti artists, his surprisingly sweet large-scale murals depict children, historical figures and elderly granadinos. His works are visible all over: in narrow alleys (especially in the Realejo neighborhood), along the banks of the Genil River and on the sides of buildings in every corner of town. Whether you set off on an organized tour to take in his best-known works or simply come across one of the vivid displays by serendipity, expect a lively and surprising complement to Granada’s historic vibe.

Detour: Street art in Granada isn’t limited to Raúl Ruiz’s work. No matter where you go in the city, you’ll likely encounter beautiful illustrations in unexpected places, like these ancient ceramic utensils painted on the shutter of a closed pharmacy (above).

4. Wax lyrical about Lorca’s Granada

Nobody has encapsulated the alluring landscapes and haunting culture of Andalucía quite like Federico García Lorca (1898–1936). And a little sliver of his “Parched land, quiet land, of immense nights” can be explored at Huerta de San Vicente. It was here – at his summer house on the western edge of the city, surrounded by bucolic poplars, palms and ponds – that he wrote many of his finest poems and plays. 

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Detour: For a deeper dive into Lorca lore, head out to Museo Casa Natal in the village of Fuente Vaqueros, 17km (13 miles) from Granada. This was the indomitable poet’s birthplace, and where he spent his early childhood years.

5. Set out on a tapas-bar crawl

A culture of tapas – free tapas – lives on in Granada. The practice of providing a small plate of food with every drink purchase was once widespread in Spain – yet, it’s now almost exclusively limited to Granada and its environs. Stalwarts like Bar Poë even have a menu offering a choice of over 10 dishes, including estofado de carne (piri-piri pork stew) or ensalada de garbanzos (chickpea salad).

If you want local expertise, Gayle and the knowledgeable guides of Granada Tapas Tours will take you to less familiar places during small-group excursions.

Planning tip: There are places offering free tapas throughout the city, although if you head to Realejo, you’ll find plenty of traditional-style bars, such as Bar Los Diamantes on Calle Navas. A useful phrase to remember is “vamos a tapear” (or loosely, “let’s go tapas-bar hopping”).

6. Add too much sugar to your mint tea at a tetería

You won’t find clusters of teterías in most other Spanish cities – for they’re a remnant of the Moorish culture that the emirs left behind when Boabdil was sent packing into the Sierra Nevada mountains. Underscoring this link are the Arabesque flourishes at Tetería Dar Ziryab, or the excellent Middle Eastern cuisine (try the mutabal and baba gahnoush) at Tetería Palmira. Locals load up on mint tea – skip the milk but go heavy on the sugar – poured into glasses from stainless steel pots.

Planning tip: The densest concentration of teterías is around the intersection of Calles Elvira and Calderería Nueva, two blocks east of the cathedral.

7. Notice the blend of architectural styles in Mudéjar buildings

Formerly a mosque, the Church of San Gil y Santa Ana is a fine example of the religious and architectural repurposing typical of Andalucía’s historic buildings. While the baroque style is immediately evident, look up to see the exquisitely carved wooden artesonado ceilings, derived from the Islamic Mudéjar style. Other fascinating architectural specimens of this era include the Corral del Carbón, so named for its former use as a coal warehouse; it was originally a 13th-century caravanserai. Nearby, the Palacio de la Madraza, next to the cathedral, has a Spanish baroque exterior that conceals the Mudéjar stucco within.

8. Take in one of Spain’s finest views

The Alhambra gloriously dominates just about vista from the Albaicín toward the snowcapped Sierra Madre peaks. Complete a late-afternoon stroll of its narrow, cobbled streets at a mirador (lookout point) in time for the sunset; the most impressive view is from Mirador San Nicolás. Many visitors to Granada book their accommodation in the Albaicín just so that they can start and end their day with this vista.

Planning tip: The streets in this area include steep sections and lots of steps, so bring appropriate footwear. Hotels higher up the hill, north of the Darro River, offer the best views; good, well-priced options include Casa Bombo and Hotel Santa Isabel la Real.

9. Brush up on Inquisition history at Palacio de los Olvidados

For a long time, the Inquisition remained a shameful and unacknowledged chapter of Spain’s past. These days, it can still feel like an unresolved issue – though museums such as the Palacio de los Olvidados, with its displays of torture devices common during the era, go some way toward examining the period of deadly extremism that followed the overthrow of the Moors in Granada.

10. Attend a flamenco performance in a Sacromonte cave

Romani heritage is in fine evidence throughout the Sacromonte neighborhood, in Granada’s northeast. Many of the oldest homes were built in the naturally abundant caves of these Sierra Nevada foothills – caves whose acoustics accentuate the emotive nature of the art form. Today, dozens of nightly shows in Sacromonte feature this form of flamenco, called granaína – among them Zambra María la Canastera and Cueva de la Rocio.

Planning tip: There are plenty of other great places to catch a flamenco performance elsewhere in Granada. Some of these traditional, non-cave flamenco theaters, known as tablao, offer dinner and a show (such as Tablao Flamenco La Alboreá); others focus purely on the art.

11. Shop for rare ceramics at Fajalauza

If you’re planning to explore the upper reaches of the Albaicín, be sure to stop by Fajalauza. In operation since 1517, the family-run factory of granaína ceramics has lasted through dozens of generations (even as rumors of its imminent closure persist). The exhibition and sales room is an ideal place to find a unique, hand-painted souvenir of your time in an unforgettable city.