The ultimate winter weekend in the Italian Dolomites

Whenever I indulged in travel daydreams about Italy, I pictured a land of glorious Roman ruins, cliff-face villages, Aperol spritzes in the sun and incredible pasta. That all changed when I visited the Alpe di Siusi region in the Italian Dolomites during the depths of winter and discovered a different world and culture, with decidedly fewer crowds to boot.

A spectacular mountain range dotted along the northern fringe of the country, the Dolomites combine German and Italian culture (locals are bilingual) with beautiful Alpine scenery and fusion cuisine. Tucked away amidst this beauty is the charming village of Suisi, with Mt Sciliar looming large overhead, and it has a wealth of delights to offer visitors.

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• When to arrive: Midweek always offers better availability at hotels and restaurants. Note that the winter season finishes in February, and most hotels will close at this point until the summer season begins in May. Then there will be another general shutdown for October and November.

• How to get from the airport: Trento and Bolzano are the two best entry points for the Dolomites. The closest major airport to Suisi is Verona but Innsbruck is convenient for those coming from the north; a train connection is then required towards Bolzano. I recommend this route, as it incorporates a scenic rail journey through the Alps.

• Getting around town: Car rental is your best option for flexibility and ensures you can reach everywhere easily if you have time and are planning to explore. If you’re planning a short break or just to ski and sleep, then Siusi is fairly compact and you can walk easily to the ski lifts, hiking trails and town from most accommodations. 

• Where to stay: There aren’t too many low-budget options in the Dolomites. It’s a region of chalets, lodges and luxury hotels. Hotel Sensoria in Suisi, the brainchild of Lea Oberhofer, exudes luxury, peace and relaxation. An all-inclusive hotel with plenty of open space, Japanese-inspired decor and next-level food offerings, it ensures your sole focus is on enjoying your stay. Another option is the Hotel Waldrast, a boutique hotel in Siusi, or the Hotel Salegg, a cheaper option for those who just want somewhere to lay their head.

• What to pack: During winter the weather will be cold, crisp and frequently snowy. But when the sun comes out it’s no joke. Bring plenty of thick layers, a rain jacket, sturdy shoes that can withstand snow, and a good SPF. If you’re planning on partaking in some snow sports, gear rental is always available for those who don’t have their own.

Friday

How to spend the day: With more blue and red slopes than black (for the experts) and nearly 180km (112 miles) of them, the Alpe di Siusi is a great choice for beginner skiers and families. There are also options to rent gear that’s conveniently left at the top of the ski lift for you.

The slopes at the top are all connected, sweeping around some of the most stunning mountainous landscapes to be found. This area is also particularly suited to cross-country skiing, should you have the stamina. The Sellaronda, a 40km (25 miles) circuit around the Gruppo di Sella mountain range, is a very popular option that rewards your effort with incredible views. Snow-shoeing is another way to enjoy the surroundings and, of course, the best way to take a break from all the action is to visit one of the many huts on the slopes.

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A favorite is the not-to-be-missed Gostner Schwaige, which serves up incredible farm-to-table fusion cuisine and warming drinks. Try the local specialty Heublütensuppen, a soup made of hay, flowers and herbs and served in a bread bowl and follow it with the Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancakes). The flavors are incredible, and dining as you watch the skiers swoosh past is peaceful and life-affirming (if anyone has a good recipe for Kaiserschmarrn, please send it my way).

After dark: Après ski is not as much of a thing here on the Italian Dolomites, where the easier slopes tend to attract families with young kids. But there is fun to be found in the mountain huts. Santner’s at the base of the gondola lift is a lively spot and most hotels have a late bar, providing you with the perfect chance to try grappa, a local favorite. I tried a homemade hay grappa in Hotel Sensoria that was absolutely delicious.

Saturday

How to spend the day: The Dolomites are a gift to those who love outdoor adventures and if you’re feeling all skied out, there’s also a treasure trove of gorgeous hiking trails, natural parks and lakes to explore. Depending on how far you’re planning to go, crampons may be a wise option. Shaded areas can be quite icy, even with the sun shining brightly, and deceptively slippery.

Consider making your way towards Lago di Fiè along a mainly flat route in the Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio; you can even try some ice skating, should the mood take you. Another option is to take the gondola lift to the slopes and walk the trails around, across and through the skiers. Walking allows you to take in more of the stunning surroundings and vibrant atmosphere than whizzing past on skis.

Dinner: Dinner is never disappointing in Italy and the Siusi region of the Dolomites is no different. The fusion of Italian and Alpine cuisine means you’ll find delectable dishes such as Knödel (dumplings), Schlutzkrapfen (ravioli) and goulash, in addition to the spread of local cheeses, meats and bread.

Then there are the desserts…some of which were the best I’ve ever had. Kaiserschmarrn is always worth trying, as well as strudel, Strauben (doughnuts), and all the Italian classics like tiramisu, profiteroles and gelato. A word of warning: don’t repeat my rookie error and enjoy the other courses so much that you don’t leave room for dessert. 

Sunday

Morning: You’re likely all tuckered out after a few days of skiing, snowboarding, hiking and ice-skating, and a great way to recover is to enjoy some rest and cultural exploration. Most accommodations in the Italian Dolomites are on the luxury end of the spectrum and tend to come with some welcome benefits. Sensoria offers a range of yoga classes and I found that a morning session not only worked out the stiffness of my days of activity but also set me up for another one.

How to spend the day: Use your final day to explore the local towns and villages, and learn more about the Ladin people of the Dolomites at the Ladin Museum in Badia. Their culture is a blend of Latin and Germanic traditions found in South Tyrol and the eponymous language is similar to Romansch.

Wood carving is a centuries-old tradition in Ladin culture, and workshops can be found a short drive from Suisi. Exponents of the art include world-renowned sculptor Aron Demetz, who still keeps his workshop in his hometown of Val Gardena. Created mainly from sequoia wood, his figurative sculptures are a wonder to behold.

The bad news is you’ll never experience everything there is to do, eat, and see in the Italian Dolomites in the space of a few days. As well as that, the winter and summer seasons are so different, that you could come back to the same place in six months and have a totally different type of trip. The good news is that’s all the more reason to organize another visit.

Amy Lynch traveled to Suisi at the invitation of Granbaita Dolomites. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.