Scattered around Panama’s northwestern corner near Costa Rica, the Bocas del Toro archipelago offers a unique blend of lush mangroves, vibrant Afro-Caribbean culture, and pristine beaches.
During my seven months backpacking through Central America and South America, Bocas del Toro was a standout highlight, unlike anywhere else I’ve visited. Unlike other tropical spots, Bocas retains an authentic feel that’s refreshingly different from more touristic areas.
Whether you’re into surfing, snorkeling, or simply soaking up the sun, this archipelago has something for everyone. I’ll help you decide which island is your vibe, too.
Here’s your Bocas del Toro travel guide to making the most of your visit!
Plan your trip to Bocas del Toro!
What to Expect in Bocas del Toro
Bocas del Toro, located in northwest Panama, is an archipelago in the Caribbean made up of 9 main islands and thousands of islets, most of them uninhabited.
It’s a popular destination in Panama for both locals and tourists, known for its vibrant Afro-Caribbean culture, pristine beaches, snorkeling, surfing, wildlife, and nightlife.
You can make Bocas del Toro a standalone vacation or combine it with a visit to other parts of Panama or Costa Rica. I actually walked across the border from Costa Rica to a shuttle that brought me to the boat to Bocas—quite an exciting way to arrive! You can also arrive by plane; it’s just a 1-hour flight from Panama City.
I expected to find beaches everywhere, but the main island isn’t right on the beach. The area is actually very mangrovey with some scattered beaches, creating a unique blend of lush greenery and stunning water views. Don’t worry though – there are several pristine beaches just a quick water taxi ride away.
Here’s what makes Bocas so special:
- Nature and Wildlife: Expect to see an abundance of wildlife, including sloths, toucans, and monkeys. The islands are a paradise for nature lovers.
- Water Activities: The clear waters are perfect for surfing, scuba diving, and snorkeling. You’ll find pristine beaches ideal for swimming and relaxing.
- Island Hopping: With 9 islands and countless islets, there’s always a new place to explore. The local water taxis make it easy to get around, though you can also see some of the more remote islands on a snorkeling tour.
- Local Vibes: What I love about Bocas is that it feels authentically Central American and uniquely Afro-Caribbean. It’s not overly touristic or sterile like some other tropical destinations. Bocas del Toro still has that “undiscovered” feel. You’ll feel the local charm everywhere you go.
- Accommodations: There’s a wide range of places to stay, from budget hostels to boutique hotels. While Bocas Town is a lively place with a fun party scene, you can also easily escape to a wide variety of quiet eco accommodations amid the jungles.
Which Island is Best for You?
The islands of Bocas del Toro are close together, making it easy to hop from one to another via tours and water taxis (more on that below).
There are three main islands plus six smaller islands scattered around. Depending on your travel style, interests, and time constraints, you may want to spend more time on some islands than others.
Isla Colón: The Heart of Bocas del Toro
Isla Colón is the main island and the most developed, making it a great starting point for first-time visitors.
When you arrive in Bocas del Toro, you’ll arrive in Bocas Town on Isla Colón. This is the hub of the region, with lots of action centered around here. This is the more built-up part of the island, but you can still explore the island’s more natural parts as well (perfect as a day trip from Bocas Town!).
When you arrive in Bocas del Toro, you’ll arrive in Bocas Town on Isla Colón. This is the hub of the region, with lots of action centered around here.
You’ll find colonial architecture, colorful buildings, and a lively atmosphere. The island has hotels, tours, stores, pharmacies, ATMs, and nightlife. It’s the only island with paved roads! Most of the tourist hotspots are located on or near the main street.
Isla Colón is perfect for travelers who enjoy being in the center of the action. If you like having a variety of restaurants, bars, and shops within walking distance, this is the place for you. It’s also ideal for those who want easy access to various tours and activities without having to travel far – one of the most popular tours goes to gorgeous spots like Cayos Zapatilla, Dolphin Bay, and Estrella del Mar.
Popular spots include Coco Fastronomy for seafood and the Floating Bar where you can sunbathe and swim off the dock and enjoy live music. Head to Tropical Suites for free pool access and happy hour on Mondays.
Some people complain about the loud partying that happens here, but it’s easy enough to find accommodations away from the party zone.
I stayed at tranquil Barrbra BNB Over the Sea, about a 20-minute walk or 6-minute taxi ride from the main part of town. Renting a bike is also an option. Another great option on Isla Colón is the area nearer to Playa Bluff – you can still get to the Bocas Town area easily by road, but it’s nice and quiet, and there are plenty of eco-cabanas and B&Bs to choose from.
While Bocas Town isn’t located directly on the beach, you can take a short water taxi to Isla Carenero for beautiful white sand beaches. Or, take a $2 water taxi to Playaita, a beautiful white sand beach and pier. Playa Bluff, about 8km from Bocas Town, is stunning but usually not safe for swimming due to rough seas. Playa Estrella, located on the far side of the island, is another gorgeous beach worth visiting – get there by scooter, bus, or water taxi.
Where to Stay on Isla Colón:
- Barrbra BNB Over the Sea
- The Sunsetter Bed & Breakfast
- Bambuda Lodge
- Surfari Bocas
- Hostal Hansi
- Aqua Point Condos
Isla Bastimentos: Wild and Remote
Isla Bastimentos is the largest and second-most popular island to stay on after Isla Colón. It has a totally different feel and culture.
It offers a more jungly and quieter feel compared to Isla Colón. It’s a 7-minute, $3 water taxi ride away, so it’s a few minutes further away from town than Isla Carenero.
This Afro-Caribbean town is known for the Old Bank settlement, with its pastel-colored houses and laid-back vibe. It’s less developed, so it offers a different experience. There are no cars on the island and just one sidewalk that passes through the whole town, which you can easily walk in about 10 minutes. You’ll hear roosters crowing and see parrots all over town.
Many of the people on this island are descendants of Jamaicans who worked the banana plantations, and they now form a vibrant and unique Afro-Caribbean community. The local language is Guari-Guari, which is a mix of Spanish, French, and English.
Prices tend to be slightly more expensive here since it’s further away with fewer accommodations, so if you’re on a budget you may want to visit the island as a day trip rather than stay overnight. There’s only one small supermarket on the island, but some locals sell fresh fruit and snacks – be sure to stock up on supplies before arriving!
There are some restaurants on the island – Lyset Place is supposed to be delicious.
It’s a great spot for advanced surfing, seeing wildlife, and exploring Panama’s first marine park, Bastimento National Marine Park. Zapatilla Island is one of the most popular spots on boat tours from Isla Colón, and it’s part of the national park, so be sure to visit while you’re here.
Wizard Beach and Red Frog Beach are must-visits, and chances are you’ll have the spots mostly to yourself. The trail to Wizard Beach can get muddy, so a boat might be a better option during the rainy season. The island is home to red frogs (only found here!), sloths, and monkeys.
Where to Stay on Isla Bastimentos:
- Selina Red Frog
- Ataraxia
- Carmen’s Place
- Eclypse de Mar Acqua Lodge
- The Lodge at Punta Rica- Hilltop Eco-Lodge
- Bastimentos Hill Guest House
Isla Carenero: Small and Central
Isla Carenero, the smallest of the main islands, is just a 2-minute, $1 water taxi ride from Isla Colón. You can choose to base yourself here, or just visit for a few hours.
It’s small, just under 1 square kilometer, but it packs a punch with its beautiful beaches and great surf spots.
Although it’s less central than Bocas Town, it still makes a great base for exploring, since you can be back in Bocas Town in a matter of minutes.
This island is known for partying. Aqua Lounge has some epic electronic music parties. Read your accommodation’s reviews carefully before booking to see if noise is a problem!
The best day to visit Isla Carenero is Sundays when the popular restaurants have fun events like BBQs and live music. Bibi’s and Receta Michila have some of the best food in Bocas del Toro.
This island is perfect for surfing, snorkeling, and enjoying the beach’s warm, blue water and fine sand. You can walk around the entire island in about an hour. You’ll walk through the untouched rainforest and find some incredible viewpoints.
It’s known for its awesome surf spots like Black Rock, Old Mans, and Carenero Point, which are especially great from December to April. The beaches have waves for all skill levels, but you’ll want to check with the locals about the best place to paddle in and out to avoid the sea urchins and fire corals.
Panama Dive School is located on Carenero, offering fun dives and certification courses. You can dive year-round in Bocas del Toro, but the best time to dive is late August to early November. All of the bay dive sites are within a 10-minute boat ride from the island!
Head to Doña Mara Beach Hotel or Aqua Lounge for kayak and paddleboard rentals.
Where to Stay on Isla Carenero:
Lesser-Known Islands
For those looking to venture off the beaten path, consider these less-visited islands, which can be visited easily by hiring a boat or taking a tour:
Isla Solarte: Known for its jungle trails, snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking, and paddleboarding. It’s less developed but offers plenty of nature activities.
Isla San Cristobal: Famous for Dolphin Bay, where you can see a unique species of bottlenose dolphins. It’s ideal for calm seas and snorkeling. You can also go horseback riding here.
Cayos Zapatillas: These are part of a national park and offer stunning white sand beaches and clear blue waters. They can get crowded during the day, so plan accordingly.
How to Hop Around the Islands
Getting around the islands of Bocas del Toro is easy. Just head to the main pier and tell the waiting boats where you’re trying to go. Water taxis connect all the ports and islands, usually costing between $1-3 one-way per person.
It’s also very popular to take day tours from Bocas del Toro to explore the surrounding islands. You can check the top day tours here.
If you want to explore off the beaten path or go at your own pace, don’t rely on regular tours to take you. Instead, hire a private captain to take you to lesser-visited beaches like Polo Beach, Punta Vieja, or Mimbitimbi.
Remember that you’re in the Caribbean, so schedules can be flexible and subject to change. It’s always best to ask what time the last boat departs before you get dropped off on an island. I also recommend asking your accommodation for tips since they usually have the most up-to-date info.
Since the islands are so close to each other, it’s common to enjoy some nightlife on one island before returning to your home island. Just make sure to ask about the last water taxi before you go out for the night.
How to Dive into Nature in Bocas del Toro
Bocas del Toro is famous for its surrounding nature, so even if you’re staying right in town, you’re always a quick boat ride away. Beyond the main populated areas, you’ll find wilder islands, vibrant reefs, and lush hiking trails.
Here’s how you can dive deeper into the natural beauty of the islands:
- Stay in an eco-lodge like Coco Key EcoLodge on Isla San Cristobal and spend your days snorkeling, fishing, and kayaking.
- Book a day tour that includes stops at various beaches and snorkeling spots. These tours are great for getting a comprehensive view of Bocas del Toro’s natural beauty.
- Take a boat tour to Cayo Zapatillas 2, walk around the island, and enjoy the untouched nature.
- Take a hike on the lush trails of Isla Bastimentos or Isla Solarte. The paths will lead you through dense jungles, offering incredible views and wildlife encounters. Be sure to visit Bastimento National Marinei Park, Wizard Beach, and Red Frog Beach.
- Go surfing at lesser-known spots like Black Rock and Carenero Point.
- Rent a kayak and paddle through the mangroves, reefs, and quiet beaches. It’s a peaceful way to explore and spot wildlife.
- Book scuba diving with a local dive shop and explore stunning underwater sites like Tiger Rock, where you can often see sharks and other marine life. Explore underwater cave systems at POlo Beach and look for huge schools of snapper, big blue parrot fish, and triggerfish.
Practical Tips for Visiting Bocas del Toro
- Costs: While Bocas del Toro can be more expensive than other parts of Central America (not including Costa Rica), it’s worth the splurge for the unique experiences. It’s still very affordable compared to most destinations!
- Cash is King: Most places operate on a cash-only basis, so make sure to bring enough cash with you. There are ATMs in Bocas Town, but not on all of the islands. Panama’s currency is the US dollar, but you’ll often get Balboa coins as change, which look similar and match in value to US coins.
- Getting to Bocas del Toro: It’s just a 1-hour flight from Panama City, making it easy to reach. There’s a bus that takes about 10-12 hours, too, but sometimes you can buy a flight for around the same price. I traveled from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica to Bocas del Toro – take a shuttle for about $25 to the border crossing, pay a departure tax, walk across a bridge, get stamped in, and hop back on a shuttle to Almironte where you’ll catch the ferry to Bocas town.
- Pack Light: It was comical to see some people bringing giant rolling suitcases onto the small water taxis, and then trying to drag them around. I’m not a minimalist packer by any means, but I was happy to have a backpack that could be carried from place to place very easily!
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Posted SEP 13, 2024