The Best Things To Do in Koufonisia, Greece | An Essential Guide

Planning to visit the island of Koufonisia? Travel better with our essential guide.

Just before the sun set, the uninhabited island across the water would be cast in a shade of soft lilac.

Sitting on sloping rocks in secret coves, where the pale pebbles crackled like popcorn kernels on a hot stove every time the water retreated, we’d do our own version of the Rorschach test: did its outline of stretched hills look more like two giant kissing lizards or dogs sleeping nose to nose? The locals said in the light of a full moon it resembled a pregnant woman but, no matter how much we squinted for a belly, we couldn’t see her.

Eventually, when the last drop of the sun’s warmth gave way to shadow, the essentials of a Koufonisia summer’s day would be packed up – a paperback, towels, goggles, crushed beer cans, suncream that smells of coconut – and we’d join others shuffling back along the unpaved coastal road in bikinis and swim shorts, glistening skin coloured several shades of caramel and water drops from salty hair dripping into the dust.

The final stop on our slow hop around some of the Small Cyclades, the diminutive island of Koufonisia offered no challenges and no stresses. There was no need to schedule anything or make a to-do list each day, and the concept of time faded away.

It was one hell of a summer.

In this guide to visiting Koufonisia, we’ve shared all our favourite things to do on this incredible Greek destination. Whilst there are a growing number of accommodations and bars catering to the Cyclades chic of better known islands, and you’ll hear more international voices on Koufonisia than on less frequented nearby islands, it feels like a world away from them.

This remains a destination that’s laid back and unflashy, where the days are long and you’ll run out of words to describe the colour blue. 

From the best beaches and swimming holes, to personal recommendations on places to eat, drink, and stay, we’ll help you make the most of your stay.

These are the best things to do in Koufonisia, Greece.

How To Get Around Koufonisia

Before sharing our favourite beaches and hangout spots on the island, a brief overview on the layout will help you plan + travel better there.

Koufonisia is actually the collective name for two neighbouring islands: Pano Koufonisi and Kato Koufonisi. The former, sometimes called Ano Koufonisi, is the small, squat island where most visitors will spend most or all of their time; Kato Koufonisi is its long, hilly neighbour just across the water that is mostly home to goats and a few wild campers. Keros, the large uninhabited island that’s often in your line of vision, is sometimes also viewed as part of the archipelago.

When we talk of Koufonisa, we’ll always be referring to Pano Koufonisi.

Unlike several of the Cycladic islands where steeps cliffs and rugged hilltops shape the landscape, Koufonisia is very flat. This makes it much easier to navigate, with the sea usually just a few steps from a road, rather than a vertiginous descent down an uneven rocky trail or dozens of steep stone steps.

It’s also very small at just 2 square miles.

These two factors only serve to underpin its attractiveness as a destination for many.

Partly due to the northerly Meltemi winds that can batter the islands in summer (more on those later), pretty much everything is on the southern side of Koufonisia and that’s where you’ll be based too.

We happily rent cars and scooters on our travels, and there are Greek islands where it is definitely essential to the travel experience. However, for Koufonisia it isn’t necessary to rent or bring over a vehicle on the ferry, and for most visitors there’s also no real need to rent a scooter or bicycle once you arrive.

That’s because it’s nearly all of the island’s best beaches and swimming holes can only be accessed by walking along a flat, dusty coastal road, hopping on a regular shuttle boat, or a combination of the two.

Leaving the port in Choro – the only town – the single road turns from tarmac, to concrete, to dust and stone as it brings you north. Within 15 minutes, you’ll be at Paralia Finika beach and in another 45 minutes or so, passing a handful of gorgeous secret coves, beaches, and swim spots that can’t be reached on two or four wheels, you’ll reach the gorgeous will crescent of Paralia Pori at the far side of Koufonisia.

That trail is great for an early morning walk or run, and we highly recommend walking the length of it at least once.

Alternatively, there are two companies that that operate regular hop-on hop-off beach boats along the southern coast, allowing you to visit a few and conveniently access those further away on days you don’t feel like walking. All-day tickets cost €5 per person, and include as many rides and stops as you wish. Journeys begin + end at the port, but you can also board + pay at any of the beaches at where they stop.

So, when discussing our favourite beaches below, we’ll tell you how long it takes to walk along the trail and whether the boats stop there or nearby. Depending on your travel style and mobility, you can choose to walk both ways, do the boat both ways, or do a combo.

We’ve shared more details on the boats and scooter/bike rental in the at the end of the post.

The Best Things To Do in Koufonisia

The Paralia Italida Cluster

We adored this spot, and returned to it a few times to swim and sunbathe on the rocks and pebbles.

Also known as Platia Pounta, the main beach of Paralia Italida has soft, golden sand and perfect blue waters. Not terribly long, but much wider than the other beaches of Koufonisia, in the mornings it feels much less crowded too. Due to the decent walk required and lack of facilities, it’s also got fewer children than the two popular family-friendly options to the south.

The only downside is that, as the day goes on and more tents are pegged down than a Glastonbury weekend, it can become quite cluttered.

So, whilst the sandy beach itself is fantastic, we actually preferred to sunbathe on two excellent little less-obvious spots immediately before and after it:

The Boat Stop Rocks | There’s only space for a half dozen or so people on the sloping rocks opposite the boat pick-up and drop-off point, but the sandy bottom swimming hole is heavenly, whilst the tanned local kids jumping in and off the boat are a reminder to any jaded adult that summertime is a state of mind. Find it here on Google Maps.

Alejandra Beach | A blissful alternative if Italida is too busy and covered in tents, or you prefer a little serenity and quiet. Choose between laying your towel upon some excellent rocks or the pebbles, and be aware that coming in and out of the water requires balance / tough feet. Find it here on Google Maps.

Travel Tip //After many summers in Italy, we’ve both come to prefer hanging out on rocks and pebbles to being on the sand, but we know that lots of others don’t feel the same.So, it’s worth emphasising that most of Koufonisia’s beaches are sandy, but all along the southern coastal trail and elsewhere, there are also several excellent, less busy pebble coves and rocky areas.

Also, Koufonisia is not an island that has fancy beach clubs, lidos, or sunbeds on the sand; you’ll always have to bring your own towel, parasol, beach tent, or whatever paraphernalia you need for the day! The water and beaches are all spectacularly clean, so please do your bit to keep them that way.

A Sorokos Sort Of Day

If we could teleport from the office to spend a few hours in the sunshine anywhere in Europe, then Sorokos Bar would be under serious consideration.

What. A. Place.

A few minutes walk from the port and town beach, the restaurant-bar-hangout occupies a privileged position right by the water, and manages to feel both cool and classy.

Want to spend the day reading, eating, lounging, sipping, tanning, and swimming a little – but don’t want wind, sand, or pebbles to be involved? Then this is where you should come.

Want to enjoy the last couple of hours sunshine with a punchy cocktail or creative small plates? This is where you should come.

From sundown until the early hours, it turns into more of a speakeasy under the stars – and we recommend taking advantage of their top notch mezcal collection in the signature cocktail list.

Whether you go by day or dark – or both – prices are a little higher to reflect the setting, quality, and vibe, but totally worth it in our view.

Where | You can find Sorokos Bar tucked away around the corner, a few minutes from Ammos Beach in the town – find it here on Google Maps

Know | Whilst some bring their kids here, we suggest that this is more of an adult spot and vibe, rather than a place for families – especially in the late afternoon and evenings.

Wander Around Choro

Chora Koufonisia, also known Koufonisia Town or simply ‘Chora’, is the hub of the island, with the ferry port, the supermarket, the bakeries, most bars, restaurants, and accommodation all found there.

A typical whitewash Cycladic village by the water, it’s very easy on the eye, and usually empty during the day as everyone is out on boats or at the beaches; when the streets are sleepiest is actually a great time to wander around it for a couple of hours.

Head up past the blue bakery (maps) and browse the Cycladic marble art at the souvenir shops, then go left at the quirky Navagios (maps), past St. George’s Church and on to the gorgeous narrow street where several little stores and cafes can be found.

Continue along to the end where you’ll find our personal favourite, Galleria Spigolo. Sogood we returned twice, the shop is wonderfully curated and the owners have an excellent eye for the curious and the beautiful. Set yourself a budget though as there are many many cool things. Find it here on Google Maps, and note that it’s open 11am-2pm, then 6pm to midnight.

Afterwards, head down the side street to Maggiw – a cool place with a good soundtrack that does the best freddo espresso we had during our 18 days island-hopping in Greece (their cocktails are also excellent).

As the opening hours for Galleria Spigolo hours indicate, that street and a nearby one really come alive from about 6pm onward, with a few cocktail bars, a cult souvlaki hole-in-the-wall and hidden late-night haunts staying open until the wee small hours.

Everyone will spend at least a couple of evenings there, and we’ve shared a lot more on that, plus our favourite restaurants, in the ‘Where To Eat & Drink’ section later in the guide.

Travel Tip // Prasinou Tours (maps) is the travel agency with ferry schedules posted outside, and also has a Piraeus Bank ATM. Friendly and knowledgeable, it’s a great option for planning tours or excursions from the island.

You can book ferry tickets there too, but we personally prefer to book ours online via Ferryhopper

The Natural Pool & The Coastal Trail

On our final morning on the island, we set the alarm early.

The northerly winds had yet to wake, the light was soft, and the water like crumpled blue velvet. The only other people on the dusty road were a few runners and a couple of other early-risers taking the opportunity to appreciate the serenity of Koufonisa before a summer’s day ensued.

Whilst we had walked the southern coastal trail a handful of times already, that was when we were very much on island time and all we took along was our towels, suncream, a single camera, a couple of paperbacks, and headphones for some serious podcast consumption.

The final morning was about being the first to swim in The Natural Pool and taking some decadent photos (look, we’ll only be this young-ish with a decent tan once).

Later in the day, this spot becomes a little busier with others taking photos and videos, but it’s nowhere near the levels of a crazy social media spot gone wrong (yet).

It is also an absolutely stunning part of the island.

As is probably already clear to you, we both highly recommend walking the length of the southern coastal trail at least once instead of relying solely on the beach shuttle boats. It’s flat and manageable for all fitness levels, and will allow you to discover the lesser-visited coves, swimming holes, and viewpoints that run its length, as well as access several excellent beaches.

It is definitely one of the best things to do in Koufonisia, and fine to do in sandals.

From the start point at the left side of Finikas Beach (maps) to the end at Paralia Pori, it’s just 2.5km and can be comfortably covered in less than an hour. Note that, if you’re based in the town, add on an extra 25-minutes to walk to Finikas Beach.

Where | You can find the Natural Pool here on Google Maps

Tip | A similar, lesser-known swimming spot is the Angel’s Eye.Unfortunately it was far too windy when we were there so wasn’t ideal for actually swimming in. 

A Day AT Fanos Beach

If you’re a couple or family looking for one of those easy holiday days where you rise late, have a long breakfast, then saunter out with no plans except to eat well, drink well, and laze or play away in the sunshine, then let us introduce you to Fanos Beach.

Just five minutes from the trail start point, it’s longer and wider than neighbouring Finikas and has a gorgeous view of Keros island across the crystal clear water.

Part of the appeal is also the beach bar & restaurant set just behind the sand. The staff there were super nice both times we stopped by for essential beers, and patrons can make use of the deck chairs and facilities for free as long as you buy the occasional drink or plate of food.

In addition to the long sandy strip of Fanos beach proper, as with Italida, there are small protected coves at either end which can offer a slightly more intimate feel if choosing to decamp at Faros during the busier months.

Do be aware that Fanos seemed to be particularly popular with families, so solo travellers or those looking for wild solitude would be better served continue on up the trail.

Where | You can find Fanos Beach here on Google Maps

Go | The shuttle boat stops here, whilst you can also arrive on foot along the trail or by bicycle along the dusty road.

Bring | Whilst food, drinks and sunbeds can be found at the beach bar, if you want to be on the sand you’ll need to bring parasols etc with you. There is some shade beneath the narrow strip of trees but on busy days most people are open to the elements.

Stay | Fanos Studios & Apartments isn’t somewhere we’d personally stay, but its location right on the beach and budget-friendly price may be enough for some. Alternatively, take a look at Pambelos Lodge, a gorgeous boutique hotel offering beautiful rooms filled with Cycladic charm, an abundance of greenery and terraces with sea views.

Sunset At The Windmill

Tourism and life is largely weighted to southern side of the island, running to the right side of the port.

However, it is absolutely worth making time to go left, and venture toward the windmill on the west.

Along the way, the curious will discover a couple of stunning secret pebble coves with insanely clear water -Ludiko and Karnagio – and just before the road bends left and up, can enjoy one of the best vistas in Koufonisia.

If you’re not planning on a couple of hours at the coves, then the best idea is to do this walk at golden hour and continue up the road to watch the sun setting from the top of the hill.

You can actually stay in the windmill (it’s available on Airbnb & booking.com), and we actually think this side of the island is a sleeper hit as a base. Although it’s a little further from the town and the more known beaches, it’s peaceful, scenic, protected from the wind, and you see far fewer people.

A couple of excellent holiday apartments that caught our eye when we passed them, and have excellent reviews, are Sohoro and Pyrthea Houses.

For the sunset spot, you’ll find it next to Agios Nikolaos church (maps).

Tip / For another sunset, make your way over to the other side of town for a drink at Rastoni (maps)

Visit The Island Of Kato Koufonisi

The island beyond the island, Kato Koufonisi is a dream for those who relish going off-the-beaten-track.

Once the preserve of famers and fishermen, and now largely populated by goats, wild campers, and a solitary donkey in a field toasted golden, the protected island is just a ten-minute boat ride away from Pano Koufonisi.

There is no accommodation, further development is banned, and the only two places of note beyond some ruins are a home on the hill with motivational slogans in the garden and single family-run taverna where there’s a Che Guevara flag inside and sign advising that “iritable and impatient customers will have to wait to be served last!”

If the beaches of Koufonisi ever feel too busy or you’re over other people, then this is where you should escape; on our day trip, we were stupefied that we were sharing one of its beautiful beaches with just a handful of other people on a hot day in early July.

There are a handful of official beaches, but probably a lot more that are unmarked or only frequented by those in the know. Our favourite was Detis (maps), a white and pale grey pebble beach sheltered from the wind with glorious sandy bottom swimming. Closer to the taverna is Laki (maps), which is a gorgeous small cove accessible down some steep steps.

The most known is Nero beach (maps) which you can reach by boat or via a trail, but we actually don’t recommend going out of your way for it on a day trip. In summertime it’s very popular with Greek wild campers who stay there for days or weeks, so it would have distinct vibe, but the beach and water itself isn’t as good as you’ll get elsewhere here and over on Ano.

Go | Kato Koufonisi is only accessible by boat, and both companies depart from the port in the town. These are the same companies that run the beach shuttle boats, but it’s a different vessel and departure for Kato, and only goes to the island. Usually they will stop at the taverna first, then Nero beach, but neither company was dropping at the beach when we were there in early July.

A return ticket costs €5 per person. Prassinos has departures from the port for Kato Koufonisi on the hour and every half hour, starting at 9.30am. Mavros has hourly departures, also starting at 9.30am, and we went with them as their staff were much nicer and far less pushy.

The last return boats are around 8pm, but Prassinos sometimes runs a final departure from the Taverna at 22:45. Whoever you go with, we recommend taking a photo of the specific timetable before you set off, and note that you can only board the same company’s boat for the return.

Know | Where Ano Koufonisi is squashed and flat, Kato Koufonisi is long and hilly. From side to side it’s 5km, and it’s necessary to walk its dusty trails with no shade to go between the beaches and the taverna. From the boat stop next to the taverna, it’s about 7 minutes along the trail to Laki, then another 10 minutes or so to Detis beach – both of these walks will be manageable for most travellers. The walk between Nero and the taverna is however a little more challenging, and will take 45-60 minutes from point to point, and we do not recommend attempting this unless necessary and outwith peak heat hours; a better idea is to just take the boat between the two if you want to visit both sides of the island.

Bring | You need to take everything with you for the beach, and it’s a good idea to bring extra water and some snacks from Ano.

Whilst the wild campers set up on the beaches and caves, there is a small campsite on the trail from the taverna but I’m afraid we don’t actually know how to get a pitch or costs.

Note that you cannot camp on the church grounds.

Tip | The taverna has been around since 1917 and run by the same family for the thirty or so years; it’s a special place in a special setting. We only had time for iced coffees there whilst waiting for the boat, but their silver trays of stuffed tomatoes, roasted aubergine, and orzo were very tempting.

If we were doing it again, we’d try to have breakfast or a late lunch there.

They also sell takeaway bottles beers and cold drinks to bring to the beach (make sure to carry them back). Card payments are accepted, but it’s a good idea to bring cash with you.

Paralia Finika Beach

We treated ourselves to a stay at the Pangaia Seaside Hotel, so Finika was our local beach.

A sandy sliver backed by trees, it’s a popular option with visitors for a few reasons: it’s the first sand beach you’ll arrive at when walking north from the town, it’s the first stop on the shuttle boat, and it’s close to a few excellent out of town accommodations.

Another reason is that it’s served by Finikas Bar & Restaurant (maps). The service is slow (they need at least one more person working) and the food average, but it’s affordable, convenient and offers heaping portions of food, so is always packed from midday onwards with people taking a break in the slatted hade between sunbathing sessions.

The tables by the windows are great too, so try to nab one if available.

If you’re spending the day on Finika or a nearby beach, it makes total sense to have lunch or a drink here, but we don’t recommend going out of your way to come and eat at the restaurant.

Where | You can find Finika beach here on Google Maps

Go | You can bicycle here or walk the 20-25 minutes from the port, whilst it’s also the first stop on the shuttle boat.

Bring | Everything you need, and there are no beach clubs or sun beds available. The only place to grab food or drinks to take away is Finikas Bar, and we suggest going straight to the till inside rather than waiting around for someone.

Tip | Both Fanos and Finikas are family-friendly, and good picks for travellers with younger kids or those who prefer to have some amenities close by. Whilst Finikas is perfectly good, it can become a bit clustered and congested as the day goes on, and we think you’re better continuing on the coastal path to Fanos.

For those who don’t need a sandy beach, there are two lovely lesser visited pebble coves that you’ll pass just a couple of minutes before arriving at Finikas, and we were big fans of them.

Stay | We stayed at the lovely Pangaia Seaside Suites (adults-only was a big tick in our book), but if you’d prefer your own space there are several properties offering fabulous villas just a short walk from Finika Beach – Glaronissi (a one-bed perfect for a couple), and Κέρος (a wonderful three bedroom house) are located nearby, but if understated luxury is more your thing then be sure to take a look at Mystic Villas.

Paralia Pori & The Hinterland

It may sound bizarre unless you’ve been there, but this beautiful half moon beach really reminded us beaches we’ve visited in the Scottish Highlands.

Of course, the temperature was a good 10-15°C warmer, the bodies several shades more mahogany, there were no midges, a smidge more willies on show, and you could actually swim in the water, but the setting did look pretty similar if you screwed up your eyes.

To some though, the more accurate comparison may be to the Maldives.

Backed by dunes and shrubs, Paralia Poriis on the remote, windswept north east side of Koufonisia. It’s a bit of a hinterland, where the surrounding scrubland is parched and there’s no buildings save for a couple of beach restaurants. Sandy and nudist-friendly, it’s also significantly bigger and longer than every other beach in Koufonisia, and the shallow waters are wonderful for swimming.

Before you start making plans though, this was the place we visited in Koufonisia that was most affected by the Meltemi winds. A feature of summers in the Cyclades, the northerly wind batters right against you as you approach Paralia Porion the coastal trail,as though it wants to protect its secrets. Due to this, we’d suggest checking the wind forecast before venturing here as it would make the difference between it being a day of paradise or perseverance.

Where | You can find Paralia Pori here on Google Maps

Go | This is furthest away beach on the island, but one of few that you can easily access by road, as well as on foot and by boat. Here’s what you need to know:

· The main road of Koufonisia ends at the car park of Paralia Pori, so you can rent a bicycle or scooter to cover the 3km from town.

· This is the final drop-off point for the beach shuttle boat.

– Paralia Pori is also the final beach on the southern coastal trail, and you should factor in about 45-60 minutes to reach it from the port. The trail behind the beach is mostly sand.

Bring | There are no beach clubs, shops, or facilities up here, so bring everything you need.

Stay | Several of Koufonisia’s most luxurious properties are located just a stone’s throw from Port Beach, including Aeris Suites Pori, Cemílion and Blue Harpist.

Know | There are two businesses up here, which is fantastic if you’re planning a full day hanging out on this side of the island. Unfortunately, one of them seems to think it’s located in Santorini or Mykonos.

Whilst Wave Beach Restaurant (maps) has a nice set-up just steps from the sand, it charges way more than most businesses on the island and seem to encourage their staff to be quite pushy with the up-sell. Two freddo espressos cost us €11, with a €4 bottle of water we politely refused not included, and it’s a common theme on their reviews that people pay way more than they expect. So, if you do stop by, arrive with eyes wide open and check the menus first.

A much better alternative is Kalofego (maps). In the cute little building nearby, it is however much more of a restaurant and only open from about midday, but 100% where we recommend if you’re here for lunch or dinner.

Top Tip //  There’s a short trail from Paralia Pori to Gala Beach (maps) and the Ksylompatis Caves (maps); they are quite dramatic with the waves crashing against them on a windy day, but we don’t think you need to go out of your way to tick them off. On the other side of the beach is the Devil’s Eye (maps), a sea hole within a cave where the waves rush and swirl. It’s a great spot for sunrise if you set the alarm early, but more of a photo spot than anything else, and you should not attempt to swim or dive in the water.

Ammos Beach

As we’ve mentioned elsewhere, beaches on the Greek islands suffer from comparison.

So, whilst the Ammos Beach next to the port is pretty damn good, it’s not the one we’d suggest you prioritise spending a day at on Koufonisia.

Backed by a handful of sky blue benches, the main beach in town is sandy and very accessible, has excellent, clear turquoise water dotted with fishing boats, and the added benefit of several places to eat + drink in easy walking distance. It’s also one of the few beaches with a bit of guaranteed shade, with people congregating like goats under the cluster of trees.

You could enjoy a marvellous day on it – families with young children in particular – but there are simply better beaches and swimming spots within easy walking distance.

Where | Ammos Beach is right next to the ferry port, so just a couple of minutes’ walk from accommodation in Chora. Find it here on Google Maps.

Plan | If you fancy a day trip from the island, there are daily boats tours and excursions to visit more of the Koufonisi Archipelago and lesser-visited beaches across them, as well as other neighbouring islands. The majority of these aren’t available to book online, so we suggest visiting the Mavros G. Boat kiosk at the ferry port or head up to Prasinou Tours in Chora for more information (here on Google Maps). Unfortunately, there is no longer a diving company in Koufonisia.

Where To Stay in Koufonisia

Chora

The centre of Koufonisia, and the only village on the island, Chora is where you’ll find the vast majority of the island’s accommodation options.

Nysis Koufonisia| This hotel is our number one pick in Chora. Brand new, it’s achingly beautiful with a minimalist-modern aesthetic, and the use of natural materials and a neutral palette creates a serene space to relax throughout. The intimate pool area is a real highlight, and guests speak highly of the excellent breakfast.

Utopia Hotel | This equally gorgeous hotel has a very similar aesthetic to Nysis (perhaps even a little better), but the lack of pool means it is priced much more affordably – especially outside of the peak months of July and August, when you can get a deluxe double for as little as £90 a night.

Another excellent hotel to consider is Olvos Koufonisia.

Christina’s House and Niriides Apartmentsare a great option for those looking for somewhere a little more affordable, but would prefer to be in a complex of sorts instead of a standalone property.

Ionathan Suites| These new, modern and well-appointed apartments are perfect if you want your own space and access to a small kitchen but still enjoy certain hotel facilities like a pool and on-site staff.

Aeris Suites| Fancy a villa with a private pool? Look no further than these compact but modern, split-level villas with exceptionally good reviews.

Modern Apartment | This really fantastic two-bedroom apartment has been decorated with a cool aesthetic throughout, and given the excellent kitchen, is an ideal option for those that would like to cook during their stay (many accommodations here have quite limited cooking  facilities).

The popular and modern Lefko Maisonette also benefits from a great kitchen, but offers a more traditional Cycladic design.

If you’re travelling in a large group, and need plenty of bedrooms, be sure to take a look at Villa Theia. The same host has a few other excellent and highly-rated Airbnbs in Koufonisia including this three-bed house and this two-bed house.

For those that prefer a little colour in their lives, consider the gorgeous (and two-bedroom, two-storey) Villa Thera. It’s a little pricier than others on the island, but the reviews are wonderful – as its location.

Other apartments that caught our eye include Katiforida Apartment, Sotos Apartment, Aeris Room, Michalios Luxury Apartments, Sorokos Koufonissia and Arpistis Apartments.

Windmill Area

The Windmill | The top choice for a unique stay in Koufonisia is the actual windmill for which we’ve named this area. Yep, you can stay in the windmill! The interiors are cute, incredibly traditional and quite small (definitely not a good option for tall people), but being able to chill outside in the sunloungers overlooking the water would more than make up for this! Available to book here on Airbnb and Booking.com.

Sohoro | We spotted these cute villas on our wanderings and both immediately said what an incredible option they were. Modern interiors with great kitchen and thoughtful design, they benefit from excellent terraces and small gardens overlooking the water (they’re also right by one of our favourite coves in Koufonisia).

We also really like Alkionides Studios. The interiors are little simpler, but it’s all clean lines and light. Also in a really peaceful location.

Finika Beach

Pangaia Seaside Hotel| This gorgeous 4* hotel is wear we stayed, and we loved it. The staff will go out of their way to do anything to help, the breakfast is excellent, the stylish rooms a good size (with kitchenettes) and terraces overlooking the sea. It’s also in a peaceful location right by Finikas Beach and the trail along the coast. During high season it’s a pricey option but we were happy with our choice. 

There are a collection of villas, of various sizes, located nearby Pangaia that go above and beyond in terms of design – they’re all just gorgeous with beautiful pieces of furniture and art throughout. Our favourites include Glaronissi (a one-bed perfect for a couple), and Κέρος (a wonderful three bedroom house)

Mystic Villas | This gorgeous collection of villas, set on the hill overlooking Finikas Beach is the epitome of understated luxury. With minimalistic and elegant design throughout, they offer peace and tranquility amongst the wilds of Koufonisia with views towards the water. All have fantastic outside areas but a couple also have jacuzzis. You can find all the listings here.

Fanos Beach

Pambelos Lodge| This gorgeous boutique hotel is where we almost stayed in Koufonisia. They offer a variety of beautiful rooms filled with Cycladic charm, and abundance of greenery and all have balconies or terraces offering seaviews. People also speak very highly of the breakfast. 

The North

If you’re looking for true luxury, make a beeline for the north. Here, just a short distance from the wild shores of Pori Beach, are some of Koufonisia’s most special properties. This area does seem to have only recently began development, so note that someof the properties are still light on reviews.

Aeris Suites Pori| Whilst the villas themselves are designed and furnished to a high standard, what really sets this property apart from the others is its incredible pool area which offers the most incredible spot to relax and unwind in the sun. Property availalble on Airbnb and Booking.com.

Cemílion | A collection of gorgeous villas of various sizes, from this stunning five-bedroom option with private pool to this charming one-bedroom that’s ideal for a couple seeking a serene retreat. All villas are furnished to a very high standard with original design features and thoughtful additions. Find all listings on Booking.com or Airbnb.

Blue Harpist is another collection of beautiful villas that visitors keen to stay in this section of the island should take a look at. Koufonisi Villaslook lovely but as it’s brand new, they currently don’t have any reviews.

Where To Eat & Drink

Eating out on Koufonisia can be split into ‘the intentional’ and ‘the situational’.

The situational takes care of itself, as if you’re having lunch at any of the Finikas, Fanos, Paralia Pori beaches, you’ll only have the choice of one (or two) places to eat nearby. For other beaches and coves, you’ll be walking to those same restaurants or taking snacks + supplies with you*

If your accommodation is set apart from Chora, then on certain evenings it may be about working out whether to walk back into town or not, or just opt for the restaurant that’s closest.

Otherwise, for ‘the intentional’ eating out and drinks, it will very much depend on your budget, the vibe you’re looking for, and whether it’s a sunset cocktail or a late night session. However, every visitor to Koufonisi will dine and drink at least one evening on two small, neighbouring streets in the town of Chora, which only come alive from about 6pm onward (and sometimes don’t go back to sleep until way past 3am…)

To help you choose, we’ve shared a few essential notes, as well as our favourite places to eat + drink on the island.

*pick up fresh bread or savoury snacks from the blue bakery in Chora (maps) and the best option for groceries and supplies is Veneti Supermarket by the port (maps)

The Mykonos/Santorini Street in Chora

Largely deserted during the day, this street overlooking the port comes alive in the early evenings once everyone has transitioned from beachwear to glad rags. We don’t know the actual name of the street, but it had a few businesses (and prices) that were more of the Mykonos/Santorini scene , so that’s we called it.

It’s a good shout for a sundowner cocktail, has two very popular dinner places, and several of the island’s main late-night spots as well.

Neo Remezzo // An incredibly popular seafood and fresh fish restaurant, that only runs a dinner service. Permanently busy, affordable and with a nice open-air setting. 

Maggiw // This little place only opened last year, but was a regular stop for us in Chora. Tucked away just around the corner from the street. For us, it’s got best freddo espresso on the island, as well as excellent, reasonably-priced cocktails for an aperitivo. Really nice staff  and great playlists.

TZET// A modern Italian and Mediterranean menu, it’s a cool, well-designed space. Prices are higher than elsewhere, but we were surprised at how good the pizza was (we needed a change after two solid weeks of excellent Greek dishes and seafood).

Mylos //The pretty space with the shop in a windmill, the cocktails were decent but prices toppy. We’d suggest this as a place to come for a pre-sunset aperitivo or a late night vibe – it’s open until 4am.

Nelipot is also on this street, and is the afterparty place on Koufonisia. Open until 3am (and often later), but we didn’t go as this trip was less about late nights, so do let us know if it gets an up or a down from you.

The Other Street in Chora 

This is the same pretty narrow street that you’ll find Galleria Sperlongi, and it’s host to a bunch of old and new favourites. As above, things only start to open and get busy from around 5.30pm in summer.

KOYFOCHORIO // A little bar with colourful chairs on the street, and a little hidden terrace inside with good views. Low-key and hip drinking hole.

Souvlaki Sti Strofi // A local instituion, the hole in the wall conjures up souvlaki and gyros, and is a popular option for an easy dinner or late night soaker-upper. We are vegetarian so can’t vouch for how good they are (they don’t have a non-meat alternative), but people rave about it.

Fystiki Gelato // Although it failed our pistachio test, it’s still much better gelato than many you’ll find on most Greek islands. Those with a sweet tooth should also grab some loukoumades from Moon Bites next door; the dough balls are a staple Greek treat.

Ca Chi Ca// It’s got a modern street food style menu of bao and burgers and cocktails. Unfortunately not great on veggie options though, but one to check out. Open 5pm until 5am (somehow).

Further up is the unique Scholio Alternative Cocktail Rock Bar. Set up in an old primary school building and easy to miss, it’s run by a friendly couple serving up crepes and cocktails – open until 3am every night.

We didn’t get the chance to stop by Navagios, but it looked like it may be a good shout for social drinks.

The Waterfront in Chora

In addition to the excellent menu at Sokoros, we highly recommend brunch or lunch at nearby KYMA (8am-2am).It’s got modern takes and plates with local ingredients and traditional elements, and a really nice setting by the sea. Their loukoumades are still made to the grandmother’s secret recipe.

The Tavernas

Whilst there are a growing number of modern menus, the best and most memorable meals you’ll have on the Greek Islands will usually be at the no-frills family-run tavernas serving freshly caught fish by the kilo and focussing on delicious traditional dishes.

Most are only open for dinner service.

Alongside Neo Remezzo, Koufonisi’s most popular is Capetan Nikolas. On the west side of the island with views of the windmill and the water, it’s a good idea to go to enjoy dining outdoors in the golden hour. Prices remain reasonable too, and it’s one of few open from 2pm.

Further along in a lovely setting by the fishing boat marina is ANEPLORA.

On the road to Finika beach, is Chondros Kavos, which is a good option for those staying on the other side of the island and not looking to go into town for in the evening.

The Koufonisia Beach Boat & Rentals

The Boats | The two hop-on hop-off boat companies have kiosks at the ferry port in Chora (maps) where you can buy tickets and find timetables.

Services start at 9.30am, and run from the port to Finkas – Fanos – Italida – Pori, and then do it in reverse.

An all-day ticket costs €5 per person, and it includes as many rides as you want that day.

Mavros G. Boat has hourly departures from 9.30am – 7.30pm. The other company runs a more frequent timetable with departures every hour and half hour, but their boats always looked much busier and crowded, so choose what’s best for you.

We recommend taking a photo of the specific timetable before you set off.

If you are not based in Chora, then you can board and buy your ticket at the beach pick-up/drop-off points.

Bicycles | The most convenient place is Thoosa Boutique (maps), but they only have electric bikes for €20 per day. If you continue walking for a few minutes along the road in the direction of Finika Beach, you’ll find another company which charges the same for electric but also has normal bikes for €8-9 per 24 hours.

If you’re staying in Koufonisi for a few days, you may wish to rent but it isn’t essential for getting around, and you should note that some beaches on the southern coastal trail can’t be reached by bike.

However, if you’re visiting the island on a day trip from Naxos or Paros, then a bicycle may be a good option to see more. The following have excellent reviews:

Koufonisi Day Cruise from Paros

Koufonisia Day Trip From Naxos (includes snorkelling and BBQ lunch)

Scooters | We don’t think you need a scooter here, but you can rent one for €30-35 per day from Moto Koufonisi (maps).

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